Maintenance: 60k Tune Up
|Alternator & Air Conditioner belt||MB879764|
|Alternator Belt (No A/C)||MD187463|
|Power Steering Belt||MD172376|
|Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley||MD140071|
|Timing Belt Idler Pulley DOHC||MD319022|
|Power Steering Belt||MD172376|
|Throttle Body Gasket||MD180361|
|Intake Plenum Gasket||MD143791|
|Spark Plug Wires||MD156560|
- Repeat 60k Tune Up
- Valve stem seals
- Timing belt idler pulleys and cam shaft seals (x4)
- Also inspect/consider replacing:
- Oil filter housing gasket
- Oil pump and oil pump gasket
- Oil pump pickup tube and pickup tube gasket
Copied from May 2005 forum post by norpardaid:
I hope this helps, because after doing my 60K I would really like to give some suggestions to anyone else who is going to do this and anyone else, please, feel free to add to my list.
- vr4stealth.com was my main resource, excellent step by step instructions:
- team3s.com great one also:
- Mitsubishi tech manual, I bought a c.d. version of my paper manual on Ebay for 10 bucks.
They all cover stuff the other one might miss, I liked having all 3. These references have MUCH more information in them than I have, MUCH more, use these!
- Make the oak wedges on vr4stealth.com to hold the cam gears in place, that John has very, very, graciously shown us how to do. I would say this alone will save you many hours!!!!
- Get the T-belt pulley tensioner tool!! It made my job so much easier, many have done w/o it, I suggest it though. I bought mine from Miller Tools for $18 (1-800-801-5420)
- Torque wrenches; 1/2, 1/4 drive too, if you can find it. You definitly need the 1/2 for the crank pulley, 1/4 is nice for the belt tension, but not necessary because of the auto tensioner and grenade pin. I borrowed one from Auto Zone, they charged me 95 bucks but refunded my card when I brought it back, you can also use it to torque your wheel back on when your done (torqued mine to 110 ft-lbs, not sure what spec is)
- Vise, it served its purpose of pushing the auto-tensioner back in when I messed up.
- Cat-litter, not a tool but you'll need it for all the spilling Anti-freeze.
- Fluid drain pan, big one.
- Big Allen Wrenches x 2. I am not sure of size, big enough to fit in the 2 holes on the crank pulley, I used these to hold my crank pulley in place when I torqued it on. Or you could make the tool shown on Team3s.com
- White paint pen or other marking fluid.
I am trying to put out what I didn't read in those pages, or what would have made it easier. These are just tidbits of information to use IN ADDITION TO the references I listed, this is not a step by step!
- I highly recommend using vr4stealth.com's way of removing the crank pulley, by placing the breaker bar against the car frame and cranking the engine for a second, this was very easy.
- Next, MARK YOUR TIMING MARKS (5 of them) AND KNOW HOW THEY LINE UP!!!!!! I saw many a post asking how these are supposed to go, take your time and mark everything with a white paint pen, even take a picture of the cam sprockets and crank sprocket before you mess with them.
- When you use the wood wedges off of vr4stealth.com, PUT THEM ON TIGHT. The cam sprockets have a good amount of torque on them and can spin if they are not tight enough.
- When installing the new belt, In the Mitsu manual on page 11-34 there is a note to "shift the timing mark of the crankshaft one tooth in the COUNTER-clockwise direction to facilitate belt installation" This worked out perfectly in some magical way, DO IT.
- When you are installing the new belt, make sure to get excess slack out of the Water pump, area. This took me a good while to do.
- I installed the tensioner pulley last, this gave me some room to get everything else tight.
- To remove the cruise control box, just remove the 4 10mm nuts on the car itselfl, no other ones.
- I did not need to un-hinge the A/C lines as suggested on team3s.com
- When you get your timing belt off, now is a great time to remove all the left over gasket crap that was in between the timing belt covers on the engine. I have read more than one post on here about this causing problems with T-belt skipping.
- Once you get the belt on and the grenade pin in the auto tensioner spins very easily, turn the crank at least 2 times, I would suggest 4, then once all timing make are lined up again, ensure the pin spins easily still. Do all of this before taking it out! I made a mistake here and took it out too early, hence me having to buy the vice and push the auto-tensioner back in to reset the pin, DON'T TAKE THE PIN OUT UNTIL YOU HAVE SPUN THE ENGINE BY HAND SEVERAL TIMES!
- I do not think I could have torqued down the crank pulley by myself. I had to line up the Allen Wrenches in the holes on both sides of the sprocket hole while holding them in place against the frame while my neighbor torqued down the pulley, while he was sitting at the front of the car, not an easy part. I believe the tool on team3s.com would be much easier but I have not tried it.
If you decide to change your T-belt yourself, I can tell you that it is a great sense of satisfaction. But it is hard. After all the crap I bought extra, I saved about 4-500 dollars by not going to the stealership. They quoted me 900$ Take your time, when you do it.
Tip from jackhammer, 1/11/11
Hope this video helps some people out, i made it in an effort to demonstrate the techniques that ive posted several times...
This isnt meant to be a step by step tutorial, its meant as a supplement to the service manual procedure, which ive gone by for over 12 years.
The points im trying to make clear are as follows........
- Setting the crank 4 teeth back to avoid valve damage during cam/cam cog installation, and 1 tooth back to set timing belt (:05 - :27)
- My reasoning why bolts are better than cam lockers (:45 - 1:50 & 4:10 - 4:35)
- Explanation of substituting a breaker bar instead of a torque wrench with the 'special tool' (5:30 - 6:12)