Electrical: Install Keyless Entry and Remote Shutdown

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Advanced Keys Remote Entry Access & Bypass Key Size Comparison

This tutorial was made using the Smart Entry and Knob Start System (AK-104S) and Auto Windows Closer Module (AK-AW01) from Advanced Keys. It was installed on a 1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4.

Here is a quick video demo: Video: Remote Auto Window Closer & Shutoff.

Most of the Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO and Dodge Stealth community is aware that we have factory alarms built into our cars, but has anyone ever seen the stock keyfob? I never have. However, the great part about our alarms is that they arm/disarm with the locking and unlocking of the doors. The plan for this unit is to combine the push-button starter done from this guide (How To: Push Button Start) with the twist of a passive remote entry system. On my car, I used a switch for the key positions and applied the Advanced Keys unit used in this tutorial. The goal of this tutorial is to make it so that when you walk up to your car, the doors will automatically unlock and the ignition will turn to the "ready to start" stage. From there, all you will have to do is get in and push a button to start the car. Additionally, when exiting the car and moving out of range, the car will automatically activate the turbo timer, lock the doors, and roll up the windows.

Standard disclaimer: Not responsible for stuff, don't shock yourself, be careful yadda yadda...

Tools Required[edit]

  • Solder
  • Soldering iron
  • Electrical tape
  • Wire cutter/splicer

Products Required[edit]

AK-104S Wiring Diagram

Note: Brian from Advanced Keys was super helpful and prompt in helping with this install in every way. I can honestly say that there isn't great customer service like this around anymore. He is offering free shipping if you put 'ADAVIES' in the memo when ordering.

AK-104S Wiring Diagram[edit]

I used this wiring info sheet to help me find most of the wires required for this tutorial, however please note that I changed a few locations for my install. Thank you to the poster of this information: Alarm Installation Wiring

I took this image (right) from the install manual. For reference, I have added numbers, in red, for each part/wire so I can keep it better organized for this tutorial. For wire color naming consistency, the wires described in this tutorial are (solid color)/(stripe color). So, for example, a gray/black wire would be a mostly gray wire with a black stripe through it.

Other than that, this tutorial is fairly easy as far as electrical work goes. You can use crimp-connectors to attach some of these wires, but soldering will be your best bet to make the connections sturdy and reliable. While an extra set of hands may help with this process, all of this guide can be performed by a single person.

Install a Smart Keyless Entry System in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth[edit]


  1. Disconnect the battery. Before doing any of the following, it is imperative that you disconnect the battery. Everything in this tutorial requires the splicing and temporary exposure of electrical wires.

Wiring Under the Dash[edit]

  1. Remove the kick-panel below the steering wheel. In order to splice the required wires, you will need to remove the kick-panel under the steering wheel. This will make your work significantly easier and I don't see any way of getting around it.
  2. Access the main wiring harness. Follow the wiring table below in order to attach the appropriate wires from the keyless entry system.
Wire Wire Colors
Number Description Harness Factory Notes Photo
1 Trunk Release Brown - I do believe some of the later generation 3000GT/Stealth's have an actuator for the trunk release, but my first generation used a cable style (so I ignored this wire for now). In the future, I plan to use this wire for something custom. If you have any problems with your alarm not deactivating, you can hook this up to the green wire on the ETACS so that you can deactivate the alarm when you hold the unlock button on the keyfob (which would normally activate the trunk release). If you want the trunk release, just find an actuator and hook it up here.
2 Parking Lights Gray Green/White The easiest solution I found was by tapping into the rheostat. If memory serves me correctly, both the green/white and black/yellow factory wires control the lights, but I just used the green/white because I already had done some splicing there. Electrical-Rheostat Wires Tapped.jpg
3 Gray Green/White
4 12v Constant Red White This wire is pretty obvious if you've ever installed anything. Splice into the white "ignition" wire that is on the ignition harness (ignore the ghetto tape-job in the photo -- this was just done for testing purposes). Electrical-Ignition Wire Tapped.jpg
5, 6 See Wiring the Driver-side Door
7 Ground Black - Attach this ground wire to a bolt/the frame of the car.
8 Horn Purple Green/Black In my install, I did not use this wire (just out of personal preference). However, you can access the horn wire in the bundle of wires that come down from the steering wheel. The factory wire is green/black.
9 Starter Relay Control White (Thin) White The yellow wire off the relay is hooked to a 12v constant. The thin white wire from the relay is spliced to the thin white wire off the 7-pin harness on the main unit. For this install, I used the same splice that I used for wire #4 (red). If you were not using it as an ignition control, you would simply cut the black/yellow wire in the picture above and attach each end of the thick white wire coming from the relay to the ends of the black/yellow you just cut. This would disable being able to start the car unless your fob was in range. This is where I got creative with my install.

To have control of the ignition on or off like I do in my setup, use the 12v side of the ignition switch. Ignition ON (ready to start) is done by connecting the thick white 12v constant wire to the blue (ACC), blue/black (Ignition 1), and the black/white (Ignition 2) wires. I still use the switch in the setup now, but this setup leaves it on so that the Advanced Keys unit controls it. I left the switch in so that I can still kill the ignition if I'm in range of the car. To do it the way I did it, you will have to change Jumper #2.
10 Push Button Purple (Thin) - Since I used the switch/ECS button combo for my push button, I did not use the one from Advanced Keys. However, the Advanced Keys push button still looks very cool and should fit right where the key cylinder would go.
11 Brake Brown (Thin) Green There should be a little harness hanging above the brake pedal. I used a spade connector on the end of the thin brown wire and barely managed to stick it in the factory harness. I spent about an hour trying to figure out a way to maneuver my body in there so I could use one arm, let alone two, to somehow splice this damn thing. The brake wire is green, and you can see in the photo where I plugged the spade with the red cover into the harness that is directly above the brake pedel. Electrical-Brake Wire Tapped.jpg
12 See Wiring the Driver-side Door
13 Door Switch Green (Thin) Red/Green You can find this little pain in the ass running along the sill, from the actual switch itself, to the driver-side kick panel somewhere. It is bundled with a bunch of other wires that run under the carpet and plastic cover under the gas and trunk release levers. Just dig out the red/green wire and splice into it.
14 Accessory Red (Thin) Blue (Thick) I had to leave this wire disconnected in my setup because it makes the unit basically stop functioning. The reason for this is because it stops searching for the fob which, in turn, would turn off my ignition. Normally you would just splice this into the thick blue wire in the picture from wire #4.
15 Antennas & LED - - These are pretty straight-forward and you can place them wherever you'd like. I put my bypass in the top-left of the windshield and one behind the little piece of carpet between the emergency brake and console. I did that to always have a good signal since it controls my ignition being on.

Wiring the Driver-side Door[edit]

  1. Access the wiring harness in the driver-side door. At this point, the unit should be functioning (minus the door locks and window closer). While these wires can be tapped into under the dash, I got annoyed and decided to cheat by using the wires inside the driver-side door. If you wish to use the wires under the dash, the guide I posted earlier says the following:
Description Wire Color(s) Location
Power Lock Brown/Blue or Brown/White High on firewall near DKP
Power Unlock Brown or Brown/Blue High on firewall near DKP
Wires routed through the door hinge

Well good F*&%ing luck with that. If you flip completely upside down, pull yourself sideways under the dash, and look towards the drivers-side of the car in the very back against the firewall. you can see half of a plastic holder that houses 3 or 4 relays. One of those controls the doors. If you try to look and can even find the wires somewhere in the 5 million running there and you can somehow manage to get your arms up there then by all means have at it.

What I did as an alternative was create my own little wire bundle for the lock wires and fed it through the wall to the door (near the door hinge) and vice versa for the wires from the auto window closing unit to the cabin (see the image to the right). I also did this because I wanted the window closer unit to be in the door. If you want the same, take a look near the door hinge and you will see a plastic piece that the wiring harness from the cabin clicks into. It has one bolt on the bottom and one on the top. I just loosened the top bolt, slipped the wires through, and slightly tightened it back down (but not too far to destroy the wires). You can seal this up if you choose this route and feel the need. I did not as it really doesn't see any weather in there. You could also drill your own hole and use a grommet but this seemed to be the way easier alternative.

From there, I just spliced all of the remaining wires to the drivers-side door switch.

Wire Wire Colors
Number Description Harness Factory Notes Photo
5 Power Lock Green Brown This is from the bundle that I ran to the door from the cabin. In my '92, the factory wire to tap into was brown. To make sure this is the same on your car, just test it with a test light. You're looking for the wire that changes when you press the lock button. Just tap it.
6 Power Unlock Blue Brown/White Just like wire #5, you can perform the same test with the test light to make sure you're tapping into the right wire (this time on unlock). On my '92, the factory wire color to tap into was brown/white. Electrical-Door Unlock Wire Tapped.jpg
12 Window Close Unit Blue (Thin) - This one connects to the Window Closer Module's purple wire.

Install the Auto Window Closer Module in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth[edit]

AK-AW01 Wire Harness

This is more of a helper if you actually have the Auto Window Closer Module and full instructions in front of you. The photo to the right shows what the entire harness looks like.

In my installation, I cut the red operation wire. This wire just runs each motor for 8 seconds as opposed to sensing for when the window is closed. I figured with our cars being as old as they are that this would be a safer bet.

Of the remaining wires, route wire #8 (purple), #19 (red), and #20 (black) back into the cabin via the door hinge trick mentioned in the Smart Keyless Entry unit install (above).

It should also be noted that wire #18 (white), #17 (white/black), #16 (yellow), #15 (yellow/black), #2 (blue), and #1 (blue/red) are not used in this guide. The reason for this is because my car doesn't have a sunroof, and none of our Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth's have rear windows. Lastly, wire #6 (brown) is not needed since the unit update is not there (so there's no point in looking). Brian from Advanced Keys has confirmed this.

That leaves us with the following wires to splice in the driver-side door:

Wire Wire Colors
Number Description Harness Factory Notes Photo
20 Ground Black - I ran this wire back into the cabin and grounded it on a bolt/the frame of the car.
19 12v Constant Red White I also ran this wire back into the cabin and attached it to the same ignition wire as the main unit.
8 Keyless Entry Unit Purple - This wire can also be routed back into the cabin with wires #19 and #20, as this will attach to the thin blue wire on the main Keyless Entry Unit.
9 12v Constant Pink - These are the polarity wires. They're explained a bit more in-depth in the instructions that came with the unit, but for simplicity, just give them the 12v constant. I cheated and just spliced them into wire #19 (red), which is also getting the 12v constant power.
10 Red/Black -
11 Front-Left Window Gray/Black Green/Red These were a bit confusing at first because it goes against your natural "just splicing" instinct, but you actually cut the window switch wires in half and connect one side to wire #12 (gray), and the other side to this wire (gray/black). The factory wire for the front-left window is green/red. Electrical-Door Left Window Tapped 2.jpg
12 Gray Electrical-Door Left Window Tapped 1.jpg
13 Front-Right Window Orange Brown/Yellow These wires are basically the same as the front-left window wires, but this time you'll be splicing into the factory brown/yellow wire.
14 Orange/Black

To wrap up, I went back, soldered and covered every wire. Where you hide the unit and clean up wires is up to you. I hope this guide helped you install this amazing product and up your cool and functioning factor by 10 points. Enjoy!