Suspension: Repair Lower Strut Bushing - Revision history

Knockingstealth at 11:42, February 24, 2014

2014-02-24T11:42:12Z

Knockingstealth at 11:40, February 24, 2014

2014-02-24T11:40:15Z

Knockingstealth at 11:39, February 24, 2014

2014-02-24T11:39:25Z

Knockingstealth at 03:40, February 24, 2014

2014-02-24T03:40:36Z

Knockingstealth: /* Replacing Bushing in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth 1st Gen VR4/TT with ECS .. possibly others */

2014-02-24T03:39:06Z

‎Replacing Bushing in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth 1st Gen VR4/TT with ECS .. possibly others

Knockingstealth at 03:38, February 24, 2014

2014-02-24T03:38:26Z

Knockingstealth at 03:37, February 24, 2014

2014-02-24T03:37:51Z

Knockingstealth at 03:35, February 24, 2014

2014-02-24T03:35:51Z

Knockingstealth at 03:29, February 24, 2014

2014-02-24T03:29:02Z

Knockingstealth at 03:25, February 24, 2014

2014-02-24T03:25:18Z

@@ Line 38: / Line 38: @@
 #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old brake pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a brake caliper cylinder.
 #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]<br style="clear:both" />
-#'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing.  Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing.  In retrospect, I should have inserted an old rubber hose or something to the center the hole saw to center it up better.  This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.#*:[[File:Holesaw.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]<br style="clear:both" />
+#'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing.  Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing.  In retrospect, I should have inserted an old rubber hose or something to the center the hole saw to center it up better.  This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.*:[[File:Holesaw.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]<br style="clear:both" />
-#'''Press in the steel sleeve'''. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again.  I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.
+#'''Press in the steel sleeve'''. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed the rest of the way.  I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.
 #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]<br style="clear:both" />
 #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]<br style="clear:both" />

@@ Line 36: / Line 36: @@
 #'''Reduce the outer diameter'''. I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.
 #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference]]<br style="clear:both" />
-#'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.
+#'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old brake pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a brake caliper cylinder.
 #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]<br style="clear:both" />
 #'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing.  Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing.  In retrospect, I should have inserted an old rubber hose or something to the center the hole saw to center it up better.  This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.#*:[[File:Holesaw.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]<br style="clear:both" />

@@ Line 38: / Line 38: @@
 #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.
 #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]<br style="clear:both" />
-#'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing.  Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing.  In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better.  This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.#*:[[File:Holesaw.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]<br style="clear:both" />
+#'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing.  Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing.  In retrospect, I should have inserted an old rubber hose or something to the center the hole saw to center it up better.  This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.#*:[[File:Holesaw.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]<br style="clear:both" />
 #'''Press in the steel sleeve'''. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again.  I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.
 #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]<br style="clear:both" />
 #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]<br style="clear:both" />

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [[Category:How To]]
 [[Category:Suspension]]
-[[Category:Strut]]
+[[Category:Rear Strut Eye Bushing]]
 A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post.  In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs  he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering.  Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts.

@@ Line 33: / Line 33: @@
 Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.
-=Replacing Bushing in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth 1st Gen VR4/TT with ECS .. possibly others=
+=Replacing Lower Strut Eye Bushing in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth 1st Gen VR4/TT with ECS .. possibly others=
 #'''Reduce the outer diameter'''. I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.
 #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference]]<br style="clear:both" />

@@ Line 19: / Line 19: @@
 These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket.  I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.
-Brand:Energy Suspension
+*Brand:Energy Suspension
-Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G
+*Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G
-Part Type:Shock Bushings
+*Part Type:Shock Bushings
-Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings
+*Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings
-Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G
+*Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G
+*Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end
-UPC:703639416135
+*Bushing Material:Polyurethane
-Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end
+*Bushing Color:Black
-Bushing Material:Polyurethane
+*Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.
-Bushing Color:Black
+*Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.
-Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.
+*Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.
 Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.
@@ Line 39: / Line 37: @@
 #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.
 #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]<br style="clear:both" />
-#'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing.  Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing.  In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better.  This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.<br style="clear:both"/>
+#'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing.  Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing.  In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better.  This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.#*:[[File:Holesaw.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]<br style="clear:both" />
 #'''Press in the steel sleeve'''. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again.  I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.
 #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]<br style="clear:both" />
 #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]<br style="clear:both" />

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:29, February 24, 2014
Line 9:		Line 9:
	Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.		Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.

		+	==Tools Needed==
		+	*Large Clamp
		+	*Bench top Grinder
		+	*Large Socket approx. 32mm
		+	*Hole Saw
		+
		+	==Parts Needed==
		+	*Old Sleeve
	These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.		These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.