Electrical: Install Keyless Entry and Remote Shutdown - Revision history

Stealthify: Performed some cleaning / added remote comparison photo

2013-04-11T08:17:52Z

Performed some cleaning / added remote comparison photo

Stealthify: Rebuilt tutorial using internal images and improved grammar/structure

2012-10-04T14:31:43Z

Rebuilt tutorial using internal images and improved grammar/structure

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Abomboldskool: Created page with "This is just a simplified guide to how I installed my ak104s and auto window closer unit from [url=http://www.advancedkeys.com]Welcome to Advanced Keys[/url] on my '92 vr4. Br..."

2012-09-29T05:07:12Z

Created page with "This is just a simplified guide to how I installed my ak104s and auto window closer unit from [url=http://www.advancedkeys.com]Welcome to Advanced Keys[/url] on my '92 vr4. Br..."

New page

This is just a simplified guide to how I installed my ak104s and auto window closer unit from [url=http://www.advancedkeys.com]Welcome to Advanced Keys[/url] on my '92 vr4. Brian was super helpful and prompt in helping in every way. I can honestly say there isn't great customer service like this around anymore.

He is offering
FREE SHIPPING!!! IF YOU PUT "ADAVIES" IN THE MEMO WHEN ORDERING!!!!

STANDARD DICLAIMER: Not responsible for stuff, don't shock yourself, be careful yadda yadda...

Here is a quick crappy video demo: [url]http://s914.photobucket.com/albums/ac341/abomboldskool66/?action=view&current=CAM00073.mp4[/url]

Like most of the 3s community we have alarms built into our cars but has anyone ever seen the stock keyfob? I never have. But the great part about our alarms is they arm/disarm with the locking/unlocking of the doors. My plan for this unit was to take my already push button starter done from this guide [url]http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/how-push-button-start-339810/[/url] with the twist of keyless ignition that I threw in. I used a switch for key positions and applied the Advanced Keys unit. I wanted to effectively walk up to my car and the doors would unlock and the ignition would turn on to the "ready to start" stage so that all I would have to do is get in and push a button. Then when exiting the car and moving out of range it would activate the turbo timer, lock the doors, and roll the windows up.

I used this wiring info sheet to help me find most of the wires but I changed a few locations for my install. Thank you to the poster of this information [url]http://www.3si.org/forum/f6/dodge-stealth-alarm-installation-wiring-134532/[/url]

I took this page from the install manual and applied a number for each part/wire so I can keep it better organized for this post.
[IMG]http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac341/abomboldskool66/RFID%20Install/Numberwiresheet_zpsc467d610.jpg[/IMG]

OK First take off the bottom part of the dash cause there is no way of getting around it.

I mention wires as Solid color of wire/color of strip on wire

Wire #1(brown) - Trunk Release - I do believe at some point they did add an actuator into the later gen cars but in this case still cable style so I ignored this wire for now. I later plan to use it for something custom. If you have problems with you alarm not deactivating you can hook it up to the green wire on the etacs so that when you hold the unlock button(activates trunk release) on the fob it deactivates the alarm. If you want trunk release just find an actuator and hook it up.

Wire #2 & #3(grey x2) - Parking lights - The easiest solution I found was just tapping the rheostat. Easy and works perfect. Here is a pic for a better idea. [IMG]http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac341/abomboldskool66/RFID%20Install/CAM00022_zpsa6492e95.jpg[/IMG]
If my memory serves me correctly both the green/white wire and the black/yellow controlled the lights but I just used the [B]green/white[/B] cause I already had some splicing going on there.

Wire #4(Red) - 12v constant - This wire is pretty obvious if you've installed almost anything. I just spliced into the [B]WHITE "ignition"[/B] wire that is on the ignition harness.
Ignore the ghetto taping deal this was still the testing phases. [IMG]http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac341/abomboldskool66/RFID%20Install/IMAG0207_zpsfad5c210.jpg[/IMG]

Wire #7 - Ground (black) - ground it somewhere....

Wire #8 - Horn (purple) - Again did not use but just out of preference. No picture here sorry but it comes down with a bundle of wires from the steering wheel(think horn buttons) It is [B]green/black[/B].

Skipping to Wire #9(thin white) - Starter relay control - First the yellow wire off the relay is hooked to a 12v constant. Then the thin white wire from the relay is spliced to the thin white wire off of the 7pin harness on the main unit. I just used the same splice that I used for wire #4(red). If you were not using it as an ignition control you would simply cut the black/yellow in the picture above and attach each end of the thick white wires coming from the relay to the ends of the black/yellow you just cut. This would disable being able to start the car unless your fob was in range.
This is where I got creative for my install.
The way I accomplished this in my setup of having it control the ignition on or off was by using this relay on the 12v side of my ignition switch. Ignition ON(ready to start) is simply connecting to thick white 12v constant wire to the Blue(acc), Blue/black(ign 1), and the Black/white(ign 2). I still use the switch in the setup now but leave it always on so that the Advanced keys unit controls it. I left the switch in so that if I am in range of the car I can still kill the ignition. In the way I did it you also have to change jumper #2.

Wire #10 - Push button(thin purple) - I didn't use this as I did not use the push button from Advanced Keys. I used the switch/ecs button combo. The push button he sells is still very cool and from the looks of it would fit right were the key cylinder would go.

Wire #11 - Brake(thin brown) - THANK GOD for whatever reason there is/was a little harness hanging above the brake pedal. I was able to put a spade connector on the end of the thin brown wire and barely manage to stick it in there. I spent about and hour trying to figure out a way to manuver my body in there so that I could use one arm let alone two to somehow splice this damn thing lol. It is a [B]green wire[/B] and you can see in this pic where I plugged in the spade with the red cover into that harness that is directly above the brake pedal [IMG]http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac341/abomboldskool66/RFID%20Install/IMAG0209_zpse03e0529.jpg[/IMG]

Skip to Wire #13 - Door Switch(thin green) - You can find this little pain in the ass running along the sill from the actual switch itself to the driver kick panel somewhere. It is bundled in with a shit ton that runs under the carpet and plastic cover under the gas and trunk release triggers. Just dig out the [B]red/green[/B] on and splice into it. Sorry don't have a pic of this one.

Wire #14 - Accessory(thin red) - In my setup I had to leave this wire disconnected because it makes the unit basically stop functioning because it stops searching for the fob which would turn off my ignition. Normally just splice it to the [B]thick blue wire[/B] in the picture from #4.

OK now the unit should functioning minus door locks and window closer. Here's where I became annoyed and started cheating. In the wire guide I posted at the top and from all I could find searching it just kept saying
"| POWER LOCK|brn/blu or brn/wht |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| POWER UNLOCK|brown or brn/blu |- |high on firewall by DKP |"
Well good F*&%ing luck with that. If you flip completely upside down, pull yourself sideways under the dash, and look towards the drivers side of the car in the very back against the firewall. you can see half of a plastic holder that houses 3 or 4 relays. One of those controls the doors. If you try to look and can even find the wires somewhere in the 5 million running there and you can some how manage to get your arms up there then by all means have at it. What I did as an alternative was create my own little wire bundle for the lock wires and feed it through the wall to the door and vice versa for the wires from the auto window closing unit to the cabin. I wanted the window closer unit to be in the door. I just spliced all the wires to the drivers side door switch. Here is an idea of it [IMG] http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac341/abomboldskool66/RFID%20Install/CAM00028_zpsbc88b990.jpg[/IMG] If you look there is a plastic piece that the wiring harness from the cabin clicks into. It has a bolt on the bottom and one on the top. I just loosened the top bolt slipped the wires through and slightly tightened it back down but not too far to destroy the wires. You can seal this up if you choose this route and feel the need. I did not as it really doesn't see any weather in there. You could also drill your own hole and use a grommet but this seemed to be the way easier alternative.

Now for #5,6,12

#5 - Lock(green) - This is part of the bundle I ran to the door from the cabin. It was[B] brown[/B] on mine. Just test around with a test light to make sure. Your looking for the one that changes when you press the lock button. Just tap it.

#6 - Unlock(Blue) - Testing obviously the same as locking except your looking for which one changes with the lock button. Mine was [U]brown/white[/U].
[IMG]http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac341/abomboldskool66/RFID%20Install/CAM00030_zps725bd8bf.jpg[/IMG]

#12 - Window closer unit(thin blue) - This one connects to the [B]purple wire[/B] from the windows closer unit.

#15 - Antennas and LED - Pretty straight forward just place where you like. I put my bypass in the top left of the windshield and one behind that little piece of carpet between the ebrake and console. I did that to always have a good signal since it controls my ignition being on.

**AUTO WINDOW CLOSING UNIT**

This is more of a helper if you actually have the unit and full instructions in front of you.

Here is what the whole harness looks like
[IMG]http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac341/abomboldskool66/RFID%20Install/CAM00026_zpsd3bbff30.jpg[/IMG]

Let me first say I cut the red operation wire. This just runs each motor for 8 seconds and opposed to sensing. I figured being 20 years old and all that good stuff it would just be the safer bet.

Out of these I ran #8(purple), #19(red), and #20(black) into the cabin via my little door harness trick in post #1. White(18), white/black(17), yellow(16), yellow/black(15), blue(2), blue/red(1) are all not used in this guide. Cause my car doesn't have a sunroof and none of ours have rear windows. Brown(6) is not needed since the unit update and is not there so stop looking lol. I confirmed this with Brian.

So...

#20 - Ground(black) - Ran to the cabin and grounded.

#19 - 12v(red) - Spliced into same wire as the main unit.

#8 - Main unit signal(purple) - This goes to the to the thin blue wire off the main unit.

#9 & #10 - Polarity wires(pink and red/black if my memory is right) - This is explained more in depth in the instructions that come with the unit but for simples sake just give them a 12v constant. I cheated and just spliced them to the #19 red wire.

#12 & #11 - Front left window(grey & grey/black) - These were confusing at first because it goes against your natural just splicing instinct but you actually cut the window switch wires in half and connect one side to the grey and the other side to the grey/black. Front left window wire is the Green/red. [IMG]http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac341/abomboldskool66/RFID%20Install/CAM00049_zps93830c99.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac341/abomboldskool66/RFID%20Install/CAM00051_zps3a15a3f4.jpg[/IMG]

#14 & #13 - Front right window(orange & orange/black) - Same idea as the one above expect the switch wire is brown/yellow.

I went back and soldered and covered sealed every wire. Where you hide the unit and clean up wires is up to you. I hope this guide helped you install this amazing product and up your cool and functioning factor 10 points.

@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
 [[Category:Electrical]]
 [[Category:Alarm]]
-<div style="float:right;margin-left:20px">__TOC__</div>
+[[File:Advanced_Keys-Access-Bypass-Regular_Key-Comparison.jpg|thumb|right|480px|Advanced Keys Remote Entry Access & Bypass Key Size Comparison]]
 This tutorial was made using the '''Smart Entry and Knob Start System (AK-104S)''' and '''Auto Windows Closer Module (AK-AW01)''' from [http://www.advancedkeys.com/ Advanced Keys]. It was installed on a 1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4.
 Here is a quick video demo: [http://s914.photobucket.com/albums/ac341/abomboldskool66/?action=view&current=CAM00073.mp4 Video: Remote Auto Window Closer & Shutoff].
-Most of the [[Mitsubishi 3000GT/Dodge Stealth|Mitsubishi 3000GT]]/[[Mitsubishi GTO|GTO]] and [[Mitsubishi 3000GT/Dodge Stealth|Dodge Stealth]] [[:category:Community|community]] is aware that we have [[:category:Alarm|factory alarms]] built into our cars, but has anyone ever seen the stock keyfob? I never have. However, the great part about our alarms is that they arm/disarm with the locking and unlocking of the doors. The plan for this unit is to combine the push-button starter done from this guide ([http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/how-push-button-start-339810/ How To: Push Button Start]) with the twist of a remote keyless ignition. On my car, I used a switch for the key positions and applied the Advanced Keys unit used in this tutorial. The goal of this tutorial is to make it so that when you walk up to your car, the doors will automatically unlock and the ignition will turn to the "ready to start" stage. From there, all you will have to do is get in and push a button to start the car. Additionally, when exiting the car and moving out of range, the car will automatically activate the turbo timer, lock the doors, and roll up the windows.
+Most of the [[Mitsubishi 3000GT/Dodge Stealth|Mitsubishi 3000GT]]/[[Mitsubishi GTO|GTO]] and [[Mitsubishi 3000GT/Dodge Stealth|Dodge Stealth]] [[:category:Community|community]] is aware that we have [[:category:Alarm|factory alarms]] built into our cars, but has anyone ever seen the stock keyfob? I never have. However, the great part about our alarms is that they arm/disarm with the locking and unlocking of the doors. The plan for this unit is to combine the push-button starter done from this guide ([http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/how-push-button-start-339810/ How To: Push Button Start]) with the twist of a passive remote entry system. On my car, I used a switch for the key positions and applied the Advanced Keys unit used in this tutorial. The goal of this tutorial is to make it so that when you walk up to your car, the doors will automatically unlock and the ignition will turn to the "ready to start" stage. From there, all you will have to do is get in and push a button to start the car. Additionally, when exiting the car and moving out of range, the car will automatically activate the turbo timer, lock the doors, and roll up the windows.
 Standard disclaimer: Not responsible for stuff, don't shock yourself, be careful yadda yadda...
-== Tools Needed ==
-* Wire cutter/splicer
+=== Tools Required ===
 * Solder
 * Soldering iron
 * Electrical tape
-== Products Required ==
+=== Products Required ===
 [[File:Electrical-Advanced Keys Wire Diagram.jpg|thumb|right|250px|AK-104S Wiring Diagram]]
 * [http://www.advancedkeys.com/Prod_AK104S.html Advanced Keys Smart Keyless Entry System + Knob Switch Start (AK-104S)]
@@ Line 24: / Line 27: @@
 ''Note: Brian from Advanced Keys was super helpful and prompt in helping with this install in every way. I can honestly say that there isn't great customer service like this around anymore. He is offering '''free shipping''' if you put 'ADAVIES' in the memo when ordering.''
 == AK-104S Wiring Diagram ==
 I used this wiring info sheet to help me find most of the wires required for this tutorial, however please note that I changed a few locations for my install. Thank you to the poster of this information: [http://www.3si.org/forum/f6/dodge-stealth-alarm-installation-wiring-134532/ Alarm Installation Wiring]
 I took this image (right) from the install manual. For reference, I have added numbers, in red, for each part/wire so I can keep it better organized for this tutorial. For wire color naming consistency, the wires described in this tutorial are (solid color)/(stripe color). So, for example, a gray/black wire would be a mostly gray wire with a black stripe through it.
 Other than that, this tutorial is fairly easy as far as electrical work goes. You can use crimp-connectors to attach some of these wires, but soldering will be your best bet to make the connections sturdy and reliable. While an extra set of hands may help with this process, all of this guide can be performed by a single person.
 <br style="clear:both" />
-= Installing the Smart Keyless Entry System in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth =
+=== Wiring Under the Dash ===
-== Wiring Under the Dash ==
+# '''Remove the kick-panel below the steering wheel'''. In order to splice the required wires, you will need to remove the kick-panel under the steering wheel. This will make your work significantly easier and I don't see any way of getting around it.
-In order to splice the required wires, you will need to remove the kick-panel under the steering wheel. This will make your work significantly easier and I don't see any way of getting around it.
+# '''Access the main wiring harness'''. Follow the wiring table below in order to attach the appropriate wires from the keyless entry system.
 {| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;" valign="top"
@@ Line 141: / Line 145: @@
 |}
-== Wiring the Driver-side Door ==
+=== Wiring the Driver-side Door ===
-At this point, the unit should be functioning (minus the door locks and window closer). While these wires can be tapped into under the dash, I got annoyed and decided to cheat by using the wires inside the driver-side door. If you wish to use the wires under the dash, the guide I posted earlier says the following:
+# '''Access the wiring harness in the driver-side door'''. At this point, the unit should be functioning (minus the door locks and window closer). While these wires can be tapped into under the dash, I got annoyed and decided to cheat by using the wires inside the driver-side door. If you wish to use the wires under the dash, the guide I posted earlier says the following:
 {| class="wikitable"
@@ Line 201: / Line 205: @@
-= Installing the Auto Window Closer Module in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth =
+== Install the Auto Window Closer Module in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth ==
 [[File:Electrical-Advanced Keys Auto Window Closer Harness.jpg|thumb|200px|AK-AW01 Wire Harness]]
 This is more of a helper if you actually have the Auto Window Closer Module and full instructions in front of you. The photo to the right shows what the entire harness looks like.