https://www.3swiki.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Knockingstealth 2026-06-05T15:41:32Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.32.0 https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Electrical:_Replace_ECU,_ECS_and_Climate_Control_Capacitors&diff=5581 2017-10-22T12:56:27Z

<p>Knockingstealth: Added to the description of a bad capacitor</p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Electrical]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:ECU]]<br /> [[Category:HVAC]]<br /> &lt;div style=&quot;float:right;margin-left:20px;&quot;&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> &lt;/div&gt;<br /> This article will teach you how to '''replace the ECU, ECS and digital climate control capacitors''' in a [[Mitsubishi_3000GT/Dodge_Stealth|Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO]] and [[Mitsubishi_3000GT/Dodge_Stealth|Dodge Stealth]]. This maintenance is particularly useful if your stock capacitors have started to leak, which can be considered a fairly common occurrence for our cars as the years pass by. Leaky capacitors are most likely to be found on first generation 3S's (1991 through 1993), but are not unheard of for later years as our cars advance in age.<br /> <br /> The good news is replacing these capacitors requires minimal tools and only the essential electrical knowledge to complete. The replacement capacitors are relatively inexpensive (less than a dollar each) and are fairly easy to find as well.<br /> <br /> When shopping for replacement capacitors, make sure that they're rated for operating temperatures between -55&amp;deg;C to 105&amp;deg;C (-131&amp;deg;F to 221&amp;deg;F). Also be aware that many retailers offer longer life capacitors as well (2000-3000 hour), which may cost slightly more, but are completely acceptable to use if you wish. <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Mitsubishi_3000GT_Leaking_Capacitor-ECU-ECM.jpg|thumb|right|340px|Leaking ECU/ECM capacitor]]<br /> [[Image:Tools.jpg|thumb|right|340px|Capacitor replacement toolkit]]<br /> ==== Where to Purchase Capacitors ====<br /> Most of the capacitors used in this tutorial were purchased from [http://www.digikey.com/?curr=USD DigiKey.com] using the listed part numbers below. Alternatively, some community members have also had luck finding similar capacitors on [http://www.parts-express.com/ Parts-Express.com] and [http://www.electronix.com/ Electronix.com], or locally as well (e.g. at Radio Shack).<br /> <br /> ==== Signs of a Bad Capacitor ====<br /> How do you know if your capacitors have met their maker? There's a good chance you'll smell it -- it's not pleasant... unless you like the smell of rotting fish. For the digital climate control, you may notice that your screen no longer functions. Other even more obvious signs include the top of the capacitor bulging/cracked, and a corrosive goo spilled out below the capacitor. Terribly annoying reactions tend to happen when the capacitors in your ECU/ECM begin to leak; intermittent starting problems, car will run poorly/stutter, and may eventually completely shut down.<br /> <br /> When in doubt, simply pull the unit in question, open it, and take a look around the circuit board. If you see yellowish gunk, or even if you want to preemptively strike an aging capacitor that might begin to leak, then you've come to the right place for help!<br /> <br /> <br /> ==== Tools Required ====<br /> * Phillips screwdriver<br /> * Flathead screwdriver<br /> * Soldering toolkit<br /> ** Solder w/ flux core<br /> ** Soldering iron<br /> ** Desoldering iron w/ integrated vacuum pump (or solder braid)<br /> <br /> <br /> The image to the right shows the tools used for this guide.The desoldering braid wicker tape is the blue plastic circle thing with copper braid sticking out. The brown bottle is liquid flux (I initially used that to coat the wicker tape for easier sucking but I don't think it was necessary at all). <br /> <br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot; /&gt;<br /> == Replace Climate Control Capacitors on a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO and Dodge Stealth ==<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot; style=&quot;float:left;&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;0&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |+ Capacitors for Digital Climate Control<br /> |-<br /> ! Qty !! DigiKey PN !! Product Information !! Location(s)<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || P5528-ND || 47uF 16V || C4<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || P5566-ND || 4.7uF 50V || C5<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || P5570-ND || 47uF 50V || C9<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || P5543-ND || 470uF 25V || C10<br /> |-<br /> | 2 || P5134-ND || 10uF 16V || C11, C17<br /> |-<br /> | 2 || P5541-ND || 220uF 25V || C14, C15<br /> |}<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot; style=&quot;float:left;margin-left: 10px;&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;0&quot; cellspacing=&quot;5px&quot;<br /> |+ Resistors for Digital Climate Control<br /> |-<br /> ! Qty !! DigiKey PN !! Product Information !! Location(s)<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || PPC1.0W-1CT-ND || 1.0 Ohm 1.0 Watt || R38<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || - || 750 Ohm 1/8 Watt || R56<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || - || 12000 Ohm 1/8 Watt || R55<br /> |-<br /> | 2 || - || 2200 Ohm 1/8 Watt || R63, R64<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || - || 47000 Ohm 1/8 Watt || R66<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || - || 3000 Ohm 1/8 Watt || R67<br /> |}<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot; style=&quot;float:left;margin-left: 10px;&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;0&quot; cellspacing=&quot;5px&quot;<br /> |+ Diodes for Digital Climate Control<br /> |-<br /> ! Qty !! DigiKey PN !! Product Information !! Location(s)<br /> |-<br /> | 3 || 1N4004 || 1 Amp (Generic) || D5, D6, D7<br /> |}<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot; style=&quot;float:left;margin-left: 10px;&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;0&quot; cellspacing=&quot;5px&quot;<br /> |+ Other Components for Digital Climate Control<br /> |-<br /> ! Qty !! RadioShack PN !! Product Information !! Location(s)<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || - || TA 78L 005AP20 || IC4<br /> |}<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot; style=&quot;float:left;&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;0&quot; cellspacing=&quot;5px&quot;<br /> |+ Transistors for Digital Climate Control<br /> |-<br /> ! Qty !! RadioShack PN !! Product Information !! Location(s)<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || - || B1019 PNP || TR2<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || - || A1015 Y2k 0.2 Watt PNP 50v, 50v, 5v (General Purpose) || TR3<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || 276-2027 || 65W TO-220 (TIP42G PNP) || Blue-green transistor on heat sink<br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot; /&gt;<br /> '''Approximate Time Required''': ~4 hours<br /> <br /> === Access and Open Digital Climate Control Unit ===<br /> # '''Remove center vents'''. Use two flat head screw drivers to lift up the hidden tabs inside the vent and a third flat head screw driver to pull the vent out. This will give you access to the top screw holding the automatic climate control display.<br /> # '''Remove radio and any trim that's in the way of the climate control display'''. The display has three screws holding it, I've circled it in red in the pictures below.<br /> #: &lt;div class=&quot;clearFix&quot;&gt;[[Image:ClimateScrews1.jpg|thumb|left|420px|Climate control unit screw locations]] [[Image:ClimateScrews2.jpg|thumb|none|250px|Climate control unit upper screw]]&lt;/div&gt;<br /> # '''Remove digital climate control display from the dashboard'''. It's difficult to remove the display out without scratching it, so I suggest putting masking tape on it. I didn't have any tape so I cut the useless white plastic piece that's hidden behind the radio trim. This makes removal much easier. Before you can remove your display unit out, you'll have to disconnect two connectors at the back and also move the black plastic box below it -- this black box is held on with four screws. I believe this black box is the climate control brain.<br /> # '''Open the digital climate control by removing the 10 screws from rear of the unit'''. If your capacitors are indeed fried, you may begin to experience a burnt fishy smell.<br /> #: [[Image:ClimateScrewLocations.jpg|thumb|none|420px|Climate control rear screws]]<br /> # '''Pull internal circuit board from the case and remove the rubbery buttons'''. The rubbery buttons will likely fall off on their own, but it'd be wise to remove them regardless so that they don't accidentally get burnt by your hot soldering iron.<br /> # '''Inspect the digital climate control's circuitry and display for visible damage'''. On the display itself, you may notice two burnt marks on the right (seen below). Don't be alarmed, apparently this is normal. On the circuitry, you will likely notice where the leaking occurred. In my case, capacitor C15 failed and leaked onto diodes D6 and D7, causing the writing on the diodes to burn off. Before continuing to the next step, take note of your capacitor's size, voltage rating and location. Also observe the capacitor's polarity as the new ones must be soldered in the same direction. Write all this stuff down, take photos if needed.<br /> #: &lt;div class=&quot;clearFix&quot;&gt;[[Image:ClimateVFD.jpg|thumb|left|420px|Climate control unit VFD]] [[Image:BurntClimate.jpg|thumb|none|300px|Failed c15 capacitor]]&lt;/div&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Replace Digital Climate Control Capacitors ===<br /> # '''Desolder and remove the VFD (display)'''. This particular task took me many hours and is easily the most difficult part of this project. I used the braid desolder method but would suggest using a better tool such as a desoldering iron with integrated vacuum pump to make the task faster/easier. If you can, try using an alligator clip on the leg of the VFD that you are desoldering to keep from heating up the display too much. Then, after desoldering as best you can, you'll need one hand to hold the circuit board, one hand to hold a soldering iron to all 3 pins of the one leg, one hand to gently apply pressure to the VFD away from the board, and one hand to pry the leg up at the same time. This is where you might want to call in a help of a friend.<br /> # '''Solder in new diodes''' (if needed). Using new 1N4004 1 amp generic diodes, I replaced diodes D6 and D7. Polarity matters, so be sure to solder them in the same direction as mine.<br /> #: [[Image:ClimateNewDiodes.jpg|thumb|none|300px|Replace diodes as needed]]<br /> # '''Solder in new resisters''' (if needed). Some people have reported R38 to be burnt up and in need of replacing. If R38 is burnt and continues to get burnt after replacing it, some members have had luck replacing the blueish-green transistor bolted to the heat sink (refer to the table at the top for part numbers). Here's a photo of a bag of 1 watt resisters being held up next to R38 to illustrate that the original resistors are probably a bit smaller than 1 watt rating.<br /> #: [[Image:Climate1WattResistor.jpg|thumb|none|300px|Replace resistors as needed]]<br /> # '''Solder in new capacitors'''. If you have any residue build-up under or around your old leaky capacitors, it is highly recommended that you clean it up. This stuff is corrosive and will surely cause issues if unaddressed.<br /> # '''Re-solder your VCD back'''.<br /> # '''Reassemble, reinstall and test the repaired climate control unit'''. You're good to go!<br /> <br /> <br /> Other than that, in case you have other damaged components, here's some pictures of my display unit circuit boards for you to compare with.<br /> &lt;gallery widths=175px heights=110px&gt;<br /> Image:3000GT-Digital AC Circuit-TR2-R38.jpg|TR2, R38<br /> Image:3000GT-Digital_AC_Circuit-TR2-IC3-R34-R35-R37-R38-R39-R40-R41-R42-R43-R44-R45-R51.jpg|IC3, R34-R35, R37-R45, R51<br /> Image:3000GT-Digital_AC_Circuit-R46-R48-R49-R50-R54-R55-R56-R57-D5-D6-D7.jpg|D5-D7, R48-R50, R54-R57<br /> Image:3000GT-Digital_AC_Circuit-C17-TR3-R58-R59-R60-R61-R63-R64-R66-R67.jpg|C17, TR3, R59-R61, R63-R64, R66-R67<br /> Image:3000GT-Digital_AC_Circuit-C17-TR3-R63-R66-R67.jpg|C17, TR3, R63, R66-R67<br /> Image:Climate1.jpg<br /> Image:Climate2.jpg<br /> Image:Climate3.jpg<br /> Image:Climate4.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> == Replace ECS Capacitors on a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO and Dodge Stealth ==<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;0&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |+ Capacitors for the ECS Unit<br /> |-<br /> ! Qty !! DigiKey PN !! Product Information !! Location(s)<br /> |-<br /> | 2 || P5570-ND || 47uF 50V || C1, C5<br /> |-<br /> | 3 || P5528-ND || 47uF 16V || C10, C23, C32<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || P5562-ND || 0.47uF 50V || C16<br /> |-<br /> | 13 || P5563-ND || 1uF 50V || C14, C17, C18, C19, C20, C24,&lt;br /&gt;C25, C26, C27, C28, C29, C30, C31<br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Access and Open ECS Unit ===<br /> # '''Access and remove ECS unit'''. Your ECS is located in the passenger side trunk area (assuming RHD vehicles), pretty close to the very rear of the car. It's held on by three screws. If you find that the screws are on unbelievably tight, you may need to remove the plastic trim panel pieces to gain good leverage.<br /> # '''Open the ECS unit casing'''. Pry open the tabs and separate the shell casing. Remove the two screws that separate the board from the casing.<br /> #: &lt;div class=&quot;clearFix&quot;&gt;[[Image:ECStabsCLOSED.jpg|thumb|left|300px|ECS unit with closed tabs]] [[Image:ECSTabsOpen.jpg|thumb|none|300px|ECS unit with open tabs]]&lt;/div&gt;<br /> # '''Inspect and take note of any visible damage inside the ECS unit'''. Note capacitor location, sizes, etc. Below is what my ECS looked like. Everything was still in good order with no damage. Take note of the 19 electrolyte capacitors polarity all face in the same direction. <br /> #: [[Image:VirginECS.jpg|thumb|none|300px|Virgin ECS unit circuit board]]<br /> <br /> <br /> === Replace ECS Unit Capacitors ===<br /> # '''Desolder capacitors'''. My technique for this task was to solder wick using a braid each capacitor before bringing it to a vice. Once the board was secured on a vice I took some needle nose pliers and wiggled the capacitors free while heating the ends. To help make this even easier, I grinded my soldering tip to a very sharp point so I could insert it deeper. You might want to print this picture so you know where the desoldering points are located. You can see some of the silkscreening on the front photo showing the original locations of the capacitors that were removed.<br /> #: &lt;div class=&quot;clearFix&quot;&gt;[[Image:ECScapsREMOVED2.jpg|thumb|left|300px|ECS unit with capacitors removed (rear)]] [[Image:ECScapacitorsREMOVED.jpg|thumb|none|300px|ECS unit with capacitors removed (front)]]&lt;/div&gt;<br /> # '''Reassemble, reinstall and test the repaired ECS unit'''. You're good to go!<br /> #: [[Image:ECSNewCapacitors.jpg|thumb|none|300px|Completed ECS unit with new capacitors]]<br /> <br /> <br /> == Replace ECU/ECM Capacitors on a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO and Dodge Stealth ==<br /> &lt;div style=&quot;padding:10px;background-color:#CCFFCC;font-size:1.1em;&quot;&gt;'''Note''': Another (more elaborate) version of this tutorial can be found here: '''[[ECU:_Replace_Capacitors_(1991-1993)|How to Replace the ECU Capacitors in Your Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO and Dodge Stealth]]'''&lt;/div&gt;<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;0&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |+ Capacitors for the ECU/ECM Unit<br /> |-<br /> ! Qty !! DigiKey PN !! Product Information<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || P5568-ND || 22uF 50V<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || P5570-ND || 47uF 50V<br /> |-<br /> | 1 || P5540-ND || 100uF 16V<br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Access and Open ECU ===<br /> # '''Disconnect negative terminal on your battery'''. This is an important first step when you're working with anything electrical on these cars.<br /> # '''Remove ECU'''. Your ECU is located behind your radio and is secured on by three bolts. You need to remove the side trims to gain access. Use a 10mm wrench to remove one bolt on the passenger side and the two bolts on the driver's side. Pull the ECU out and then disconnect the ECU harness. Be sure to unlock the ECU clips before pulling. I find it helps to use a flat head screw driver when pulling the connector. Don't pull on the wires as you may damage your harness!<br /> # '''Open ECU Case'''. If your ECU has never been open, those screws might be on there super tight. To avoid stripping the four black screws use a cordless drill and put a lot of weight behind it so the bit doesn't slip.<br /> #: [[Image:ECUCase2.jpg|thumb|none|300px|Open the ECU Case]]<br /> # '''Unscrew the circuit board'''. In order to access the capacitors, you need to remove the cover and unscrew four more screws that hold the circuit board down. Remove these screws.<br /> # '''Inspect and take note of any visible damage of the circuit board'''. Write down the polarity of the capacitors so that you can install the new capacitors in the same way.<br /> <br /> === Replace ECU Capacitors ===<br /> # '''Desolder the stock ECU capacitors'''. To remove the capacitors, I would use the same technique mentioned above with the ECS capacitors. First suck the solder out, and then pull the capacitors out while heating the ends.<br /> # '''Solder in the new capacitors'''. I intentionally left mine long so it will make future removal easy. This is now my third set of capacitors for preventative maintenance.<br /> #: &lt;div class=&quot;clearFix&quot;&gt;[[Image:93ECU1.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Install new capacitors in the ECU (top)]] [[Image:93ECU2.jpg|thumb|none|300px|Install new capacitors in the ECU (angled)]]&lt;/div&gt;<br /> # '''Reassemble, reinstall and test the repaired ECU unit'''. Reinstall screws, case lid, screws again and finally reinstall into car. Reconnect ground battery.</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Repair:_Common_Problems_and_Associated_Repair_Cost&diff=5441 2015-10-02T02:02:09Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:Information]]<br /> [[Category:Repair]]<br /> There are SO many problems that are fairly common, and fortunately finding an answer for them here on 3si is pretty easy. If you are in the market to purchase a Stealth or a 3000GT, here are a few things that you should keep an eye out for:<br /> <br /> * [[Door:_Replace_Power_Window_Motor|Broken window regulators ($100 to $250)]]<br /> * Cracked transfer case/leaking gear oil (Under federal recall: free!)<br /> * Brake light flashs upon acceleration (low brake fluid)<br /> * Flashing tour/sport light (unplugged or broken wire on ECS)<br /> * Yellow indicator light flashes on turns (low window washer fluid)<br /> * Water leaking into the car (often through the rear hatch)<br /> * [[Exhaust:_Troubleshoot_Smoke_Colors|Car smokes a lot during idle (head gasket/etc - $1000+)]]<br /> * Lifter tick (inevitable, research 3rd generation lifters $350+ (can be had for $120 in GB section))<br /> * Active Aero not working (check wiring)<br /> * Alarm goes off randomly (check hood/door triggers)<br /> * Locks randomly activate/deactivate (ETACs $150, or Door Switches $35, or wiring)<br /> * Snapped timing belt (if not replaced every 60k)<br /> * Broken radio antenna ($50 to $100)<br /> * Grinding into 1st, 2nd, 3rd and/or reverse gears (going syncros, $1000+, or do it yourself for $300)<br /> * Cracked dash vents ($50 to $90)<br /> * Ripping/cracking leather seats ($300 to $750 to reupholster)<br /> * Ripping/cracking Door panels, and rear quarter panels ($50-$100)<br /> * Ripping/cracking Shift Boot ($15.00 on ebay)<br /> * SRS light on (Free – unplug bulb in gauge cluster)<br /> * Leaking oil on valve cover ($10.00 for replacement oil cap with better seal)<br /> * Pitting/Flaking chrome rims. ($200 - $750 each)<br /> * Leaking Fuel sending unit at bent hardline above gas tank ($10-$100)<br /> * Leaking capacitors in ECU and Digital Climate Control($40-$300)<br /> * Spun Bearing (New/rebuilt engine possibly turbos $2000-$3000)<br /> * Dented Oil Pan used as jacking point, causing Spun Bearing($100 - 3k)<br /> * Rear Wheel Steering leaks (Common fix is to remove at $100.00 in linkages)<br /> * Active Exhaust Valve locks up due to corrosion (Most people replace entire exhaust ($350-$1500)<br /> * Ignition Solenoid does not start car (???)<br /> * ISC Idle Speed Control motor (40.00+ECU)<br /> * Loose timing belt due to slipping tensioner pulley (0-1000.00)<br /> * Cracked tranny drain plug hole threads (100-200 new end cover) <br /> * Viscous coupling Blown due to towing car with only 2 wheels ($1200-$2500 tranny rebuild)</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Transmission:_Parts_(AWD)&diff=5353 2015-02-13T15:23:32Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:Information]]<br /> [[Category:Transmission]]<br /> !!!!!!!! Talked to John Davis this morning This is all out of date info CRS no longer has any parts for our cars 02/13/2015!!!!!!!!!&lt;br /&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Getrag had shifted the remanufacture of its WM5G1 and WM6G1 gearboxes from its Getrag America facility to an outside firm, Component Remanufacturing Specialists, Inc. (CRS). Apparently, Getrag has been supplying CRS with the necessary parts to repair these units all along. Therefore, there exists a &quot;well-oiled&quot; mechanism for getting parts out of Germany. Mr. Donnelson states that CRS is willing to sell parts directly - either to dealerships or to individuals.<br /> <br /> This is a win-win situation because CRS has a lot of experience with these parts which should result in rapid and accurate order fulfillment. I would suggest however, that each of us do our homework before calling CRS so we don't expend too much their time troubleshooting our gearbox problems over the phone. Remote diagnosis is something that they aren't set up for, and may cause them to have seconds thoughts about selling direct.<br /> Component Remanufacturing Specialists, Inc. (CRS) <br /> :400 Corporate Drive <br /> :Mahwah, New Jersey 07430 <br /> :Attention: John Davis - Parts Manager <br /> :(405)350-3800 ext. ??? <br /> <br /> We dont know John' ext, but you can easily use the name directy and type '328' and he is the only match.&lt;br /&gt;<br /> <br /> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ <br /> !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Out of date info above do not call John Davis, He said they gave all of the stock back to getrag 5 years ago. !!!!!!!!!!!!&lt;br /&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> 1st/2nd each have 3 rings. The blocking ring is the one that mainly wears out, but there may be damage on the others. Or you may want to replace them all as they don't cost too much. 1st and 2nd gear each has its own separate set of rings. The remaining speeds (3rd-5th and reverse) just have one synchro ring each. <br /> <br /> *C46 1st/2nd Outer ring 31.13 <br /> *C47 1st/2nd Blocking ring 15.03 <br /> *C48 1st/2nd Inner ring 23.93 <br /> *C45 1st/2nd Set of three rings 70.09 Times 2 <br /> *C11 3rd/4th Synchro ring 22.95 <br /> *C63 5th Synchro ring 65.40 <br /> *C74 Reverse synchro ring 68.00 <br /> '''Total 296.53'''<br /> <br /> There are no actual case gaskets. Case joints are filled with sealant, Mitsubishi P/N MD997740. <br /> <br /> *B06 Output shaft seal 10.25 <br /> *B07 Driveshaft seal, driver's side 4.60 <br /> *B31 Driveshaft seal, passenger side 4.40 <br /> *B32 Oil fill plug 1.18 <br /> *B33 Oil fill plug gasket 0.05 <br /> *B52 Oil drain plug 3.08 <br /> *B53 Oil drain plug gasket 0.05 <br /> *B59 Rear plug(Input shaft plug) 1.18 <br /> '''Total 24.79'''<br /> <br /> The rubber plug in the back is part B59, and it costs $1.18. I don't know what purpose it serves; it's not a drain, filler, or breather. I may be able to figure it out when I pull mine apart. There is a gasket ring shown on the drawing (B60), but CRS doesn't stock it. They say to coat it with Loctite before assembling. I'd replace it, rubber deteriorates. <br /> Thiaks to Todd1225 I've added some new/updated prices(11/19/02)<br /> <br /> *1st gear itself - $49.56<br /> *2nd gear itself - $360.58<br /> *3rd and 4th gear kit w/synchros - $220.32<br /> *1st and 2nd gear kit w/synchros - $644.06 (or 322.03 for each gear ring set)<br /> *Ouptut shaft - $326.38<br /> *Input 0-Ring $1.00<br /> *Input front bearing - $50.52<br /> *9 balls - $1.62<br /> *9 Springs - $4.21<br /> *6 keys - $86.40<br /> *5th gear synchro ring - $78.48<br /> *5th gear bearing - $57.48<br /> <br /> Thanks to everyone that made the availability of these parts a reality. <br /> <br /> Updated 8/21/03 from Bret Brinkmann<br /> Order part number B66 (input shaft cap/seal). This is an important seal that you can't reuse because you have to destroy it to remove it. <br /> <br /> Also, when ordering parts be sure to have the model number off the transaxle bellhousing as well as the month and year your car was made from the door jam so you are sure to get the right parts. Some parts, are different even if the transaxles were made in the same year.</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Transmission:_Parts_(AWD)&diff=5352 2015-02-13T15:21:58Z

<p>Knockingstealth: CRS is no longer dealing in these parts</p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:Information]]<br /> [[Category:Transmission]]<br /> !!!!!!!! Talked to John Davis this morning This is all out of date info CRS no longer has any parts for our cars 02/13/2015!!!!!!!!!<br /> <br /> Getrag had shifted the remanufacture of its WM5G1 and WM6G1 gearboxes from its Getrag America facility to an outside firm, Component Remanufacturing Specialists, Inc. (CRS). Apparently, Getrag has been supplying CRS with the necessary parts to repair these units all along. Therefore, there exists a &quot;well-oiled&quot; mechanism for getting parts out of Germany. Mr. Donnelson states that CRS is willing to sell parts directly - either to dealerships or to individuals.<br /> <br /> This is a win-win situation because CRS has a lot of experience with these parts which should result in rapid and accurate order fulfillment. I would suggest however, that each of us do our homework before calling CRS so we don't expend too much their time troubleshooting our gearbox problems over the phone. Remote diagnosis is something that they aren't set up for, and may cause them to have seconds thoughts about selling direct.<br /> Component Remanufacturing Specialists, Inc. (CRS) <br /> :400 Corporate Drive <br /> :Mahwah, New Jersey 07430 <br /> :Attention: John Davis - Parts Manager <br /> :(405)350-3800 ext. ??? <br /> <br /> We dont know John' ext, but you can easily use the name directy and type '328' and he is the only match.<br /> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ <br /> !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Out of date info above do not call John Davis, He said they gave all of the stock back to getrag 5 years ago. !!!!!!!!!!!!<br /> <br /> 1st/2nd each have 3 rings. The blocking ring is the one that mainly wears out, but there may be damage on the others. Or you may want to replace them all as they don't cost too much. 1st and 2nd gear each has its own separate set of rings. The remaining speeds (3rd-5th and reverse) just have one synchro ring each. <br /> <br /> *C46 1st/2nd Outer ring 31.13 <br /> *C47 1st/2nd Blocking ring 15.03 <br /> *C48 1st/2nd Inner ring 23.93 <br /> *C45 1st/2nd Set of three rings 70.09 Times 2 <br /> *C11 3rd/4th Synchro ring 22.95 <br /> *C63 5th Synchro ring 65.40 <br /> *C74 Reverse synchro ring 68.00 <br /> '''Total 296.53'''<br /> <br /> There are no actual case gaskets. Case joints are filled with sealant, Mitsubishi P/N MD997740. <br /> <br /> *B06 Output shaft seal 10.25 <br /> *B07 Driveshaft seal, driver's side 4.60 <br /> *B31 Driveshaft seal, passenger side 4.40 <br /> *B32 Oil fill plug 1.18 <br /> *B33 Oil fill plug gasket 0.05 <br /> *B52 Oil drain plug 3.08 <br /> *B53 Oil drain plug gasket 0.05 <br /> *B59 Rear plug(Input shaft plug) 1.18 <br /> '''Total 24.79'''<br /> <br /> The rubber plug in the back is part B59, and it costs $1.18. I don't know what purpose it serves; it's not a drain, filler, or breather. I may be able to figure it out when I pull mine apart. There is a gasket ring shown on the drawing (B60), but CRS doesn't stock it. They say to coat it with Loctite before assembling. I'd replace it, rubber deteriorates. <br /> Thiaks to Todd1225 I've added some new/updated prices(11/19/02)<br /> <br /> *1st gear itself - $49.56<br /> *2nd gear itself - $360.58<br /> *3rd and 4th gear kit w/synchros - $220.32<br /> *1st and 2nd gear kit w/synchros - $644.06 (or 322.03 for each gear ring set)<br /> *Ouptut shaft - $326.38<br /> *Input 0-Ring $1.00<br /> *Input front bearing - $50.52<br /> *9 balls - $1.62<br /> *9 Springs - $4.21<br /> *6 keys - $86.40<br /> *5th gear synchro ring - $78.48<br /> *5th gear bearing - $57.48<br /> <br /> Thanks to everyone that made the availability of these parts a reality. <br /> <br /> Updated 8/21/03 from Bret Brinkmann<br /> Order part number B66 (input shaft cap/seal). This is an important seal that you can't reuse because you have to destroy it to remove it. <br /> <br /> Also, when ordering parts be sure to have the model number off the transaxle bellhousing as well as the month and year your car was made from the door jam so you are sure to get the right parts. Some parts, are different even if the transaxles were made in the same year.</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Transmission:_Rebuild_5-Speed_AWD_Getrag&diff=5346 2015-01-28T23:04:19Z

<p>Knockingstealth: /* Punch Out Pins */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Transmission]]<br /> Rebuild guide for the 5 speed AWD getrag transmission found in 91-93 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 and Dodge Stealth RT/TT.<br /> <br /> ==Setup==<br /> Remove the transmission and take it somewhere where you can work on it. Consult www.stealth316.com for removal instructions.<br /> Some removal tips from me: If you are in reasonable shape, you should be able to slide the transmission off and drop it on your chest without<br /> too much worry. Getting it back in may require two people or a transmission jack. Here is a long thread on 3si.org about putting the transmission<br /> back in yourself:<br /> http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=325371&amp;highlight=benchpress<br /> While the transmission is out, it is a good time to check your clutch (or replace it) and also to replace the rear main seal.<br /> <br /> Once the transmission is out, it should look like this:<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission1.jpg|300px]] <br /> <br /> ==Remove the Bellhousing==<br /> Remove the bellhousing. To do this we need to take out the shifting controls. Remove the rail selector control first<br /> (the one that moves then you move the shift knob side to side). Don't lose the little plastic block that is on the end that connects to the<br /> gear select lever.<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission2.jpg|300px]]<br /> ===Remove the Gear Select Lever===<br /> Now remove the gear select lever. Two bolts and pull it out. Try to pull it out carefully trying not to lose the spring<br /> on the end. If you do lose it, you can get it later when the tranny is open.<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission3.jpg|300px]] <br /> ===Loosen the Guide Bolt===<br /> Loosen the guide bolt here. Don't remove it all the way like I did. Doesn't seem to want to thread in very easily. This guy has loctite on it.<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission4.jpg|300px]] <br /> ===Bolts Holding the Bellhousing ===<br /> Take off all the bolts holding the bellhousing on. Don't miss the 3 REALLY LONG ones.<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission5.jpg|300px]] <br /> === Punch Out Pins ===<br /> Punch out the pins with some sort of pin punch or you can just wack them with a hammer. The housing will come off without actually pushing the pins through.<br /> <br /> At this point a couple of swift knocks with a rubber mallet (not the 5lb mini-sledge in the pictures) loosened the bellhousing, and I lifted it off.<br /> <br /> Here you go. Don't be scared.<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission6.jpg|300px]]<br /> <br /> == Shaft disassembly ==<br /> Are you just replacing the 1-2 synchros? If so that is most of the disassembly that you need to do, but you'll need a GOOD 3 jaw gear puller.<br /> go to vr4stealth.com for the jaw method on the bench.<br /> My 3rd was grinding a bit, do I decided to replace that as well. This basically means that I had to take the tranny ALL the way apart. <br /> <br /> ===Front Differential Removal===<br /> Lift off the front differential<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission7.jpg|Left|300px]]<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission8.jpg|Right|300px]]<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission9.jpg|300px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Remove the 3 detent balls and springs in the picture. Once you have the 2 bolts out, let the case off slowly (you don't want things flying everywhere).<br /> Take off the cover, and use a magnetic pickup tool to get the 3 balls out if they don't come out on their own. Put all this in a bag or something.<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission10.jpg|Left|300px]]<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission11.jpg|Right|300px]]<br /> <br /> Remove the bolts holding the endcase to the mid-case. <br /> <br /> Lift off the midcase after punching out the two dowels (like before). Once again, you may need to whack it with a rubber mallet.<br /> <br /> Voila.<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission12.jpg|300px]]<br /> <br /> Wiggle it around a little and you can lift out the output shaft and center differential assembly. <br /> <br /> [[image:transmission13.jpg|300px]] t16.jpg<br /> <br /> Now we need to remove the shift rails/forks, input shaft, and intermediate shaft. Scrape off the RTV on the endcase and you'll see the plastic<br /> round thingy that needs to come out. The manual says to punch a screwdriver through it and pry it out. I think if I had to do it again, I would<br /> use a very small screwdriver and pry around the edges -- maybe not destroying the seal. <br /> <br /> [[image:transmission14.jpg|300px]] t2a.jpg<br /> <br /> After this is out, remove the 7mm hex bolt(12mm for 25 spline transmissions) on the end of the<br /> intermediate shaft. Pay attention here -- If you just try to unscrew it, the shafts will turn. Push down all the shift rails at once (or just two)<br /> and this<br /> puts the tranny into 2 gears at once, locking it in place. Now you should be able to remove the bolt. It's on tight (60-ish ft-lbs).<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission15.jpg|300px]] t17a.jpg<br /> <br /> Now is where you get to exorcise your inner demons. That intermediate shaft is pressed in. You get to beat it out. If you have a GIANT puller,<br /> use that. If you are sitting next to a press, use that. If not, pick your least favorite socket (for me it was an autozone spark plug socket. In retrospect<br /> I probably wouldn't have used that one), and use it to beat the intermediate shaft out of the endcase.<br /> Bret Brinkmann recommends setting the transmission on its side and while a friend holds the endcase, pounding out the shaft.<br /> <br /> I set the case up on two cinder blocks and beat downward, making sure nothing is binding and it slowly comes out. Pic is with the shaft partway out.<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission16.jpg|300px]] t18.jpg<br /> <br /> Buh-bye socket<br /> [[image:transmission17.jpg|300px]] t21.jpg<br /> <br /> Once the intermediate shaft is pushed past where it is held in, you can remove the input and intermediate shafts together w/ the shift rails. The forks<br /> will now just come off the shafts, and they are separated.<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission18.jpg|300px]] t19.jpg<br /> <br /> [[image:transmission19.jpg|300px]] t20.jpg<br /> <br /> Now it's time to pull apart the shafts and replace blocking rings, etc. If you have a press you are golden. If not, find a machine shop that will<br /> press stuff on and off for you. If you don't screw it up (I certainly wasn't successful the first time) both shafts can be disassembled and reassembled<br /> with new 1-2, 3-4 blocking rings in about an hour. Apparently people have problems with reverse grinding. You can replace the synchro there too.<br /> <br /> The quality on these isn't the greatest, but the below images are the exploded views of the intermediate and input shafts from the service manual.<br /> Thanks to Gatescrasher for putting all the time in to make this service manual available.<br /> <br /> [[image:intermediate_shaft.jpg|300px]] intermediate_shaft.jpg<br /> <br /> [[image:input_shaft.jpg|300px]] input_shaft.jpg<br /> <br /> I recommend bringing the endcase and shift rails with you to the machine shop. Have the shop press the intermediate shaft back into the case for you.<br /> <br /> I thought about just using the 7mm hex to pull it back into place. In retrospect I can see that going horribly wrong. Either stripping the threads on the<br /> screw, or the shaft, or breaking the head off the hex bolt.<br /> <br /> Now reassemble. Do it all in reverse. Maybe put some assembly lube on the shift select spring so that it doesn't fall off and make you take it all apart again. Check that the bolt on the shifter has not become loose, if it does it can create problems getting into reverse gear.<br /> <br /> [[image:shifter.jpg|300px]]<br /> <br /> Test that you can go smoothly through all 6 gears (i know it's a five speed, but reverse counts too).<br /> <br /> Put it back in the car.<br /> <br /> Enjoy. No, wait, put fluid back in before you enjoy. Or you won't enjoy.</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Window_Regulator&diff=5327 2014-09-28T06:14:46Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add pictures. <br /> <br /> #Lower your window down about 1/2 way. After you do step 2 you may need to adjust the height to access the window bolts before removing the panel electrically<br /> #Remove the door panel. Video's and wiki's already exist for this.<br /> #Prop the window with a board under the window slightly toward the back.<br /> #Remove the 2 long (10mm) bolts that attach the regulator to the window. They are located about 2 inches up from the bottom of the window.<br /> #Remove the screws that hold the 4 (10mm) bolts that hold the regulator at he top and bottom.<br /> #Remove the 3 screws that hold the motor to the door.<br /> #Unplug the motor.<br /> #Carefully rotate the regulator until it can be removed. Might help to have a helper lift the window up off of the regulator.<br /> #Observe the end pulley orientation. The top pulley should be parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. Mine was bent 90 degrees. <br /> #Carefully work the Teflon pulley and Teflon assembly so that it is parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. This can be difficult due to the tension on the cables. One cable should go around the pulley and the other should go along the outside curved guide.<br /> #Once it is in position clamp it with a set of vise-grips or other clamp.<br /> #Next you need to fabricate a backing plate to hold the Teflon bracket and pulley straight while under load. I used an old drawer slide. I bought 2 #10 bolts and a couple locking nuts from the hardware store. I bolted through the indentation locations on metal part of the regulator. Also, I bought 1/4&quot; long aluminum spacers. Have seen other people do this differently, but this worked for me. The main goal is to keep the upper teflon bracket from flopping over and binding the cables up.<br /> [[File:front_regulator.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Notice panhead philips bolts]]<br /> [[File:Back_regulator.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Notice Locknuts and wire tires]]<br /> [[File:Side_Regulator.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Notice Bent edge capturing bracket]]<br /> After you are satisfied with the bracket, clean and lubricate the regulator slide and put everything back in. Once again you may need hand lifting the window so the regulator can be slid back into place.</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Window_Regulator&diff=5326 2014-09-28T06:13:37Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add pictures. <br /> <br /> #Lower your window down about 1/2 way. After you do step 2 you may need to adjust the height to access the window bolts before removing the panel electrically<br /> #Remove the door panel. Video's and wiki's already exist for this.<br /> #Prop the window with a board under the window slightly toward the back.<br /> #Remove the 2 long (10mm) bolts that attach the regulator to the window. They are located about 2 inches up from the bottom of the window.<br /> #Remove the screws that hold the 4 (10mm) bolts that hold the regulator at he top and bottom.<br /> #Remove the 3 screws that hold the motor to the door.<br /> #Unplug the motor.<br /> #Carefully rotate the regulator until it can be removed. Might help to have a helper lift the window up off of the regulator.<br /> #Observe the end pulley orientation. The top pulley should be parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. Mine was bent 90 degrees. <br /> #Carefully work the Teflon pulley and Teflon assembly so that it is parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. This can be difficult due to the tension on the cables. One cable should go around the pulley and the other should go along the outside curved guide.<br /> #Once it is in position clamp it with a set of vise-grips or other clamp.<br /> #Next you need to fabricate a backing plate to hold the Teflon bracket and pulley straight while under load. I used an old drawer slide. I bought 2 #10 bolts and a couple locking nuts from the hardware store. I bolted through the indentation locations on metal part of the regulator. Also, I bought 1/4&quot; long aluminum spacers. Have seen other people do this differently, but this worked for me. The main goal is to keep the upper teflon bracket from flopping over and binding the cables up.<br /> [[File:front_regulator.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Notice panhead philips bolts]]<br /> [[File:Back_regulator.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Notice Locknuts and wire tires]]<br /> [[File:Side_Regulator.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Notice Bent edge capturing bracket]]<br /> #After you are satisfied with the bracket, clean and lubricate the regulator slide and put everything back in. Once again you may need hand lifting the window so the regulator can be slid back into place.</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Window_Regulator&diff=5325 2014-09-28T06:13:02Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add pictures. <br /> <br /> #Lower your window down about 1/2 way. After you do step 2 you may need to adjust the height to access the window bolts before removing the panel electrically<br /> #Remove the door panel. Video's and wiki's already exist for this.<br /> #Prop the window with a board under the window slightly toward the back.<br /> #Remove the 2 long (10mm) bolts that attach the regulator to the window. They are located about 2 inches up from the bottom of the window.<br /> #Remove the screws that hold the 4 (10mm) bolts that hold the regulator at he top and bottom.<br /> #Remove the 3 screws that hold the motor to the door.<br /> #Unplug the motor.<br /> #Carefully rotate the regulator until it can be removed. Might help to have a helper lift the window up off of the regulator.<br /> #Observe the end pulley orientation. The top pulley should be parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. Mine was bent 90 degrees. <br /> #Carefully work the Teflon pulley and Teflon assembly so that it is parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. This can be difficult due to the tension on the cables. One cable should go around the pulley and the other should go along the outside curved guide.<br /> #Once it is in position clamp it with a set of vise-grips or other clamp.<br /> #Next you need to fabricate a backing plate to hold the Teflon bracket and pulley straight while under load. I used an old drawer slide. I bought 2 #10 bolts and a couple locking nuts from the hardware store. I bolted through the indentation locations on metal part of the regulator. Also, I bought 1/4&quot; long aluminum spacers. Have seen other people do this differently, but this worked for me. The main goal is to keep the upper teflon bracket from flopping over and binding the cables up.<br /> [[File:front_regulator.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Notice panhead philips bolts]]<br /> [[File:Back_regulator.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Notice Locknuts and wire tires]]<br /> [[File:Side_Regulator.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Notice Bent edge capturing bracket]]<br /> # After you are satisfied with the bracket, clean and lubricate the regulator slide and put everything back in. Once again you may need hand lifting the window so the regulator can be slid back into place.</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Window_Regulator&diff=5324 2014-09-28T06:11:13Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add pictures. <br /> <br /> #Lower your window down about 1/2 way. After you do step 2 you may need to adjust the height to access the window bolts before removing the panel electrically<br /> #Remove the door panel. Video's and wiki's already exist for this.<br /> #Prop the window with a board under the window slightly toward the back.<br /> #Remove the 2 long (10mm) bolts that attach the regulator to the window. They are located about 2 inches up from the bottom of the window.<br /> #Remove the screws that hold the 4 (10mm) bolts that hold the regulator at he top and bottom.<br /> #Remove the 3 screws that hold the motor to the door.<br /> #Unplug the motor.<br /> #Carefully rotate the regulator until it can be removed. Might help to have a helper lift the window up off of the regulator.<br /> #Observe the end pulley orientation. The top pulley should be parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. Mine was bent 90 degrees. <br /> #Carefully work the Teflon pulley and Teflon assembly so that it is parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. This can be difficult due to the tension on the cables. One cable should go around the pulley and the other should go along the outside curved guide.<br /> #Once it is in position clamp it with a set of vise-grips or other clamp.<br /> #Next you need to fabricate a backing plate to hold the Teflon bracket and pulley straight while under load. I used an old drawer slide. I bought 2 #10 bolts and a couple locking nuts from the hardware store. I bolted through the indentation locations on metal part of the regulator. Also, I bought 1/4&quot; long aluminum spacers. Have seen other people do this differently, but this worked for me. The main goal is to keep the upper teflon bracket from flopping over and binding the cables up.<br /> [[File:front_regulator.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Notice panhead philips bolts]]<br /> [[File:Back_regulator.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Notice Locknuts and wire tires]]<br /> [[File:Side_Regulator.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Notice Bent edge capturing bracket]]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Window_Regulator&diff=5323 2014-09-28T06:08:41Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>Window Regulator Repair<br /> Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add pictures. I know this exists in other place on the web currently, but it would be nice to have it here in a stable location)<br /> <br /> #Lower your window down about 1/2 way.<br /> #Remove the door panel. Video's and wiki's already exist for this.<br /> #Prop the window with a board under the window slightly toward the back.<br /> #Remove the 2 long (10mm) bolts that attach the regulator to the window. If you do not see them you need to change the height of the window. They are located about 2 inches up from the bottom of the window.<br /> #Remove the screws that hold the 4 (10mm) bolts that hold the regulator at he top and bottom.<br /> #Remove the 3 screws that hold the motor to the door.<br /> #Unplug the motor.<br /> #Carefully rotate the regulator until it can be removed. Might help to have a helper lift the window up off of the regulator.<br /> #Observe the end pulley orientation. The top pulley should be parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. Mine was bent 90 degrees. <br /> #Carefully work the Teflon pulley and Teflon assembly so that it is parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. This can be difficult due to the tension on the cables. One cable should go around the pulley and the other should go along the outside curved guide.<br /> #Once it is in position clamp it with a set of vise-grips or other clamp.<br /> #Next you need to fabricate a backing plate to hold the Teflon bracket and pulley straight while under load. I used an old drawer slide. I bought 2 #10 bolts and a couple locking nuts from the hardware store. I bolted through the indentation locations on metal part of the regulator. Also, I bought 1/4&quot; long aluminum spacers. Have seen other people do this differently, but this worked for me. The main goal is to keep the upper teflon bracket from flopping over and binding the cables up.<br /> [[File:front_regulator.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Notice panhead philips bolts]]<br /> [[File:Back_regulator.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Notice Locknuts and wire tires]]<br /> [[File:Side_Regulator.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Notice Bent edge capturing bracket]]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Window_Regulator&diff=5322 2014-09-28T06:06:47Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>Window Regulator Repair (Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add to this) I know this exists in other place on the web currently, but it would be nice to have it here in a stable location)<br /> <br /> #Lower your window down about 1/2 way.<br /> #Remove the door panel. Video's and wiki's already exist for this.<br /> #Prop the window with a board under the window slightly toward the back.<br /> #Remove the 2 long (10mm) bolts that attach the regulator to the window. If you do not see them you need to change the height of the window. They are located about 2 inches up from the bottom of the window.<br /> #Remove the screws that hold the 4 (10mm) bolts that hold the regulator at he top and bottom.<br /> #Remove the 3 screws that hold the motor to the door.<br /> #Unplug the motor.<br /> #Carefully rotate the regulator until it can be removed. Might help to have a helper lift the window up off of the regulator.<br /> #Observe the end pulley orientation. The top pulley should be parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. Mine was bent 90 degrees. <br /> #Carefully work the Teflon pulley and Teflon assembly so that it is parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. This can be difficult due to the tension on the cables. One cable should go around the pulley and the other should go along the outside curved guide.<br /> #Once it is in position clamp it with a set of vise-grips or other clamp.<br /> #Next you need to fabricate a backing plate to hold the Teflon bracket and pulley straight while under load. I used an old drawer slide. I bought 2 #10 bolts and a couple locking nuts from the hardware store. I bolted through the indentation locations on metal part of the regulator. Also, I bought 1/4&quot; long aluminum spacers. Have seen other people do this differently, but this worked for me. The main goal is to keep the upper teflon bracket from flopping over and binding the cables up.<br /> [[File:front_regulator.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Notice panhead philips bolts]]<br /> [[File:Back_regulator.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Notice Locknuts and wire tires]]<br /> [[File:Side_Regulator.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Notice Bent edge capturing bracket]]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Window_Regulator&diff=5321 2014-09-28T06:06:18Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>Window Regulator Repair (Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add to this) I know this exists in other place on the web currently, but it would be nice to have it here in a stable location)<br /> <br /> #Lower your window down about 1/2 way.<br /> #Remove the door panel. Video's and wiki's already exist for this.<br /> #Prop the window with a board under the window slightly toward the back.<br /> #Remove the 2 long (10mm) bolts that attach the regulator to the window. If you do not see them you need to change the height of the window. They are located about 2 inches up from the bottom of the window.<br /> #Remove the screws that hold the 4 (10mm) bolts that hold the regulator at he top and bottom.<br /> #Remove the 3 screws that hold the motor to the door.<br /> #Unplug the motor.<br /> #Carefully rotate the regulator until it can be removed. Might help to have a helper lift the window up off of the regulator.<br /> #Observe the end pulley orientation. The top pulley should be parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. Mine was bent 90 degrees. <br /> #Carefully work the Teflon pulley and Teflon assembly so that it is parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. This can be difficult due to the tension on the cables. One cable should go around the pulley and the other should go along the outside curved guide.<br /> #Once it is in position clamp it with a set of vise-grips or other clamp.<br /> #Next you need to fabricate a backing plate to hold the Teflon bracket and pulley straight while under load. I used an old drawer slide. I bought 2 #10 bolts and a couple locking nuts from the hardware store. I bolted through the indentation locations on metal part of the regulator. Also, I bought 1/4&quot; long aluminum spacers. Have seen other people do this differently, but this worked for me. The main goal is to keep the upper teflon bracket from flopping over and binding the cables up.<br /> [[File:front_regulator.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Notice panhead philips bolts]]<br /> [[File:Back_regulator.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Notice Locknuts and wire tires]]<br /> [[File:Side_regulator.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Notice Bent edge capturing bracket]]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=File:Side_Regulator.JPG&diff=5320 2014-09-28T06:05:53Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Window_Regulator&diff=5319 2014-09-28T06:03:45Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>Window Regulator Repair (Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add to this) I know this exists in other place on the web currently.<br /> <br /> #Lower your window down about 1/2 way.<br /> #Remove the door panel. Video's and wiki's already exist for this.<br /> #Prop the window with a board under the window slightly toward the back.<br /> #Remove the 2 long (10mm) bolts that attach the regulator to the window. If you do not see them you need to change the height of the window. They are located about 2 inches up from the bottom of the window.<br /> #Remove the screws that hold the 4 (10mm) bolts that hold the regulator at he top and bottom.<br /> #Remove the 3 screws that hold the motor to the door.<br /> #Unplug the motor.<br /> #Carefully rotate the regulator until it can be removed. Might help to have a helper lift the window up off of the regulator.<br /> #Observe the end pulley orientation. The top pulley should be parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. Mine was bent 90 degrees. <br /> #Carefully work the Teflon pulley and Teflon assembly so that it is parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. This can be difficult due to the tension on the cables. One cable should go around the pulley and the other should go along the outside curved guide.<br /> #Once it is in position clamp it with a set of vise-grips or other clamp.<br /> #Next you need to fabricate a backing plate to hold the Teflon bracket and pulley straight while under load. I used an old drawer slide. I bought 2 #10 bolts and a couple locking nuts from the hardware store. I bolted through the indentation locations on metal part of the regulator. Also, I bought 1/4&quot; long aluminum spacers. Have seen other people do this differently, but this worked for me. The main goal is to keep the upper teflon bracket from flopping over and binding the cables up.<br /> [[File:front_regulator.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Notice panhead philips bolts]]<br /> [[File:Back_regulator.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Notice Locknuts and wire tires]]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=File:Back_regulator.JPG&diff=5318 2014-09-28T06:02:12Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Window_Regulator&diff=5317 2014-09-28T06:00:39Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>Window Regulator Repair (Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add to this) I know this exists in other place on the web currently.<br /> <br /> #Lower your window down about 1/2 way.<br /> #Remove the door panel. Video's and wiki's already exist for this.<br /> #Prop the window with a board under the window slightly toward the back.<br /> #Remove the 2 long (10mm) bolts that attach the regulator to the window. If you do not see them you need to change the height of the window. They are located about 2 inches up from the bottom of the window.<br /> #Remove the screws that hold the 4 (10mm) bolts that hold the regulator at he top and bottom.<br /> #Remove the 3 screws that hold the motor to the door.<br /> #Unplug the motor.<br /> #Carefully rotate the regulator until it can be removed. Might help to have a helper lift the window up off of the regulator.<br /> #Observe the end pulley orientation. The top pulley should be parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. Mine was bent 90 degrees. <br /> #Carefully work the Teflon pulley and Teflon assembly so that it is parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. This can be difficult due to the tension on the cables. One cable should go around the pulley and the other should go along the outside curved guide.<br /> #Once it is in position clamp it with a set of vise-grips or other clamp.<br /> #Next you need to fabricate a backing plate to hold the Teflon bracket and pulley straight while under load. I used an old drawer slide. I bought 2 #10 bolts and a couple locking nuts from the hardware store. I bolted through the indentation locations on metal part of the regulator. Also, I bought 1/4&quot; long aluminum spacers. Have seen other people do this differently, but this worked for me. The main goal is to keep the upper teflon bracket from flopping over and binding the cables up.<br /> [[File:front_regulator.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=File:Front_regulator.jpeg&diff=5316 2014-09-28T05:59:07Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Window_Regulator&diff=5315 2014-09-28T05:58:40Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>Window Regulator Repair (Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add to this) I know this exists in other place on the web currently.<br /> <br /> #Lower your window down about 1/2 way.<br /> #Remove the door panel. Video's and wiki's already exist for this.<br /> #Prop the window with a board under the window slightly toward the back.<br /> #Remove the 2 long (10mm) bolts that attach the regulator to the window. If you do not see them you need to change the height of the window. They are located about 2 inches up from the bottom of the window.<br /> #Remove the screws that hold the 4 (10mm) bolts that hold the regulator at he top and bottom.<br /> #Remove the 3 screws that hold the motor to the door.<br /> #Unplug the motor.<br /> #Carefully rotate the regulator until it can be removed. Might help to have a helper lift the window up off of the regulator.<br /> #Observe the end pulley orientation. The top pulley should be parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. Mine was bent 90 degrees. <br /> #Carefully work the Teflon pulley and Teflon assembly so that it is parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. This can be difficult due to the tension on the cables. One cable should go around the pulley and the other should go along the outside curved guide.<br /> #Once it is in position clamp it with a set of vise-grips or other clamp.<br /> #Next you need to fabricate a backing plate to hold the Teflon bracket and pulley straight while under load. I used an old drawer slide. I bought 2 #10 bolts and a couple locking nuts from the hardware store. I bolted through the indentation locations on metal part of the regulator. Also, I bought 1/4&quot; long aluminum spacers. Have seen other people do this differently, but this worked for me. The main goal is to keep the upper teflon bracket from flopping over and binding the cables up.<br /> [[File:front_regulator.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Window_Regulator&diff=5314 2014-09-28T05:54:39Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>Window Regulator Repair (Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add to this) I know this exists in other place on the web currently.<br /> <br /> #Lower your window down about 1/2 way.<br /> #Remove the door panel. Video's and wiki's already exist for this.<br /> #Prop the window with a board under the window slightly toward the back.<br /> #Remove the 2 long (10mm) bolts that attach the regulator to the window. If you do not see them you need to change the height of the window. They are located about 2 inches up from the bottom of the window.<br /> #Remove the screws that hold the 4 (10mm) bolts that hold the regulator at he top and bottom.<br /> #Remove the 3 screws that hold the motor to the door.<br /> #Unplug the motor.<br /> #Carefully rotate the regulator until it can be removed. Might help to have a helper lift the window up off of the regulator.<br /> #Observe the end pulley orientation. The top pulley should be parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. Mine was bent 90 degrees. <br /> #Carefully work the Teflon pulley and Teflon assembly so that it is parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. This can be difficult due to the tension on the cables. One cable should go around the pulley and the other should go along the outside curved guide.<br /> #Once it is in position clamp it with a set of vise-grips or other clamp.<br /> #Next you need to fabricate a backing plate to hold the Teflon bracket and pulley straight while under load. I used an old drawer slide. I bought 2 #10 bolts and a couple locking nuts from the hardware store. I bolted through the indentation locations on metal part of the regulator. Also, I bought 1/4&quot; long aluminum spacers. Have seen other people do this differently, but this worked for me. The main goal is to keep the upper teflon bracket from flopping over and binding the cables up.</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Window_Regulator&diff=5313 2014-09-28T05:48:33Z

<p>Knockingstealth: Created page with &quot;Window Regulator Repair (Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add to this) I know this exists in other place o...&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>Window Regulator Repair (Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add to this) I know this exists in other place on the web currently.<br /> <br /> 1. Lower your window down about 1/2 way.<br /> 2. Remove the door panel. Video's and wiki's already exist for this.<br /> 3. Prop the window with a board under the window slightly toward the back.<br /> 4. Remove the 2 long (10mm) bolts that attach the regulator to the window. If you do not see them you need to change the height of the window. They are located about 2 inches up from the bottom of the window.<br /> 4. Remove the screws that hold the 4 (10mm) bolts that hold the regulator at he top and bottom.<br /> 5. Remove the 3 screws that hold the motor to the door.<br /> 6. Unplug the motor.<br /> 7. Carefully rotate the regulator until it can be removed. Might help to have a helper lift the window up off of the regulator.<br /> 8. Observe the end pulley orientation. The top pulley should be parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. Mine was bent 90 degrees. <br /> 9. Carefully work the teflon pulley and teflon assembly so that it is parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. This can be difficult due to the tension on the cables. One cable should go around the pulley and the other should go along the outside curved guide.<br /> 10. Once it is in position clamp it with a set of vise-grips or other clamp.<br /> 11. Next you need to fabricate a backing plate to hold the teflon bracket and pulley straight while under load. I used an old drawer slide. I bought 2 #10 bolts and a couple locking nuts from the hardware store. I bolted through the indentation locations on metal part of the regulator. Also, I bought 1/4&quot; long aluminum spacers. Have seen other people do this differently, but this worked for me.</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Frozen_Door_Locks&diff=5311 2014-09-27T01:43:02Z

<p>Knockingstealth: /* Step 14 */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Door]]<br /> &lt;div style=&quot;float:right;&quot;&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> &lt;/div&gt;<br /> ==Tools==<br /> *10mm socket with long extensions and drive<br /> *Long 1/8&quot; straight screwdriver<br /> *A second very small screw driver<br /> *Needle-nose pliers<br /> *Razor-blade and/or sand paper<br /> *Penetrating oil,<br /> others: see tool list for removing door panel on linked site.<br /> <br /> I apologize for the poor quality of some of the photos, but I was using a cheap camera since I knew I was going to get it dirty!<br /> <br /> ==Step 1==<br /> Remove inner door panel, I recommend that you read the page on how to do this on Jeff Lucius' site [http://stealth316.com/2-door-panel.htm Here]<br /> <br /> ==Step 2==<br /> Peel back the plastic cover about halfway, starting at the back of the door. At this point, you can look in and see the linkages that connect to the lock and outside door handle. <br /> <br /> [[Image:step2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 3==<br /> Remove the 2 (10mm) bolts that hold the handle on,<br /> <br /> [[Image:step3a.jpg]]<br /> <br /> One inside the door<br /> <br /> [[Image:step3b.jpg]]<br /> <br /> one on the &quot;back&quot; of the door above the latch.<br /> <br /> ==Step 4==<br /> With the handle loose, it is much easier to disconnect the linkages. First, rotate the small plastic connector on the lock rod so that it unclips from the rod, and the rod slides out. Second, reach inside and undo the larger plastic clip on the door handle. It &quot;latches&quot; in the back, and by unlatching it, the rod can slip out. You need to pull the clip toward the front of the car. Unlike the other clip the rod comes out of the clip in the same direction it comes out of the hole. If you cannot get it by hand, it can help to use a small, long, flat screw driver to unlatch it, by going in through the outside screw hole left open by the bolt you removed from the handle assembly. I've attached a picture of the plastic piece open, and outside of the door which will hopefully help you understand how it comes off, this step was a major PITA the first time I tried it.<br /> [[Image:step4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 5==<br /> Once these linkages are disconnected, it just takes some twisting and finagling to get the handle assembly out. It is easiest to lower the back end of the assembly downward, and then lift the handle as if to open the door, and then swing it out. Be patient, and watch your paint. On earlier models it may be necessary to remove the phillips screw that attaches a small white plastic bracket that holds a magnetic sensor before removing the handle.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step5.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 6==<br /> The lock is held to the handle assembly with a wire spring clip, which must be pulled out of slots on opposite sides of the lock.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step6.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 7==<br /> Next, carefully pry the rotary switch off of the end of the lock drum.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step7.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 8==<br /> You will now have the lock drum in your hand, and you can bring it inside to be worked on. Now is a good time to note the orientation of the arm on the end of the tumbler. On the door locks, the hole in the drum faces downward, and the arm points towards the rear of the car. The passenger side drum is shown here:<br /> <br /> [[Image:step8.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 9==<br /> Next, remove the E-clip, the arm, and the centering spring. The arm is held on only by the E-clip; resist the temptation to ''unscrew'' the end, as the slot merely turns the rotary switch and is ''not'' a screw head!<br /> <br /> [[Image:step9.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 10==<br /> Working at the other end of the drum, you will find that the metal cap is held on by two detented points. you must pry these out straight enough that the cap slides off, I used a very small flat head screwdriver.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step10.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 11==<br /> Under the cap you will find the little &quot;trap door&quot; that covers the key hole, and the cage that holds it on. While its NOT necessary to take these off, I removed them, just to check for corrosion, and to straighten out the cage. Be careful not to lose the two springs that drive the trap door.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step11.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 12==<br /> Now comes the first step towards actually getting the locks working. If the tumbler set moves in the drum, carefully pull it out, making sure that none of the tumbler tabs or springs fall out, which I doubt they will if the lock is frozen. On my drivers side lock, it came right out, on the passenger side, I had to drive it out, by beating on it with my screwdriver and pliers, after letting it soak in penetrating oil.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step12.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 13==<br /> You will now begin removing and cleaning the tumbler tabs. This may require letting the tumbler set soak in penetrating oil a while longer. If you can move the tabs by pushing on the small end with your screwdriver, then you are ready to continue. <br /> <br /> [[Image:step13.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 14==<br /> Remove the tumbler tabs &lt;b&gt;one at a time&lt;/b&gt; by pushing on the small end with the screwdriver until enough is exposed that you can grab the big end with your pliers and pull it out without losing the spring. Once you have one of the tabs out, clean both sides and the edges with sandpaper or a razor-blade. Put each tab back before moving on! If the tabs do not move freely in their slots further cleaning is required. Also, make sure that the openings are not bent and pinching the tabs. <br /> <br /> Before:<br /> <br /> [[Image:step14a.jpg]]<br /> <br /> After:<br /> <br /> [[Image:step14b.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 15==<br /> When each of the six to eight tabs is clean, oiled and placed back into the drum, put the key into the drum to see how the tabs line up. Not all of the tabs were totally flush on my set, so as a precaution, I put the tumbler set up to a bench mount 1&quot; belt sander to smooth and flush the tabs, this can be done with sand paper or even a small file.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step15.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 16==<br /> Now comes reassembly. You may find it necessary to clean out the inside of the tumbler barrel, so that the tumbler set turns freely inside it (with the key inserted of course). I coated the tumbler set in some synthetic grease before putting it back in the barrel to inhibit further corrosion. From here on out, its basically the reversal of steps 12 through 1. One thing to note however, the centering spring on my driver's side lock had worn into the tumbler set so significantly that it made it difficult to turn the key. To remedy this, i turned the spring &quot;inside out&quot; and reshaped the arms on either end of the spring so that it had a stronger, fresh purchase on the tumbler set.<br /> Lo and behold! It turns! <br /> <br /> [[Image:step16.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Credits==<br /> &lt;b&gt;Written by:&lt;/b&gt; James Fisk AKA Jimmy Nuetron (spelled incorrectly) on 3si.org!<br /> <br /> &lt;b&gt;Uploaded by:&lt;/b&gt; Christian AKA Mr Wizard<br /> ==Supporting Links==<br /> &lt;b&gt;Original Thread:&lt;/b&gt; [http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=333261&amp;page=1&amp;pp=10 3SI Thread]<br /> <br /> &lt;b&gt;Information Originally Posted at:&lt;/b&gt; [http://consolezines.com/3Spages/doorlocks.html Here]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Frozen_Door_Locks&diff=5310 2014-09-27T01:36:52Z

<p>Knockingstealth: /* Step 11 */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Door]]<br /> &lt;div style=&quot;float:right;&quot;&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> &lt;/div&gt;<br /> ==Tools==<br /> *10mm socket with long extensions and drive<br /> *Long 1/8&quot; straight screwdriver<br /> *A second very small screw driver<br /> *Needle-nose pliers<br /> *Razor-blade and/or sand paper<br /> *Penetrating oil,<br /> others: see tool list for removing door panel on linked site.<br /> <br /> I apologize for the poor quality of some of the photos, but I was using a cheap camera since I knew I was going to get it dirty!<br /> <br /> ==Step 1==<br /> Remove inner door panel, I recommend that you read the page on how to do this on Jeff Lucius' site [http://stealth316.com/2-door-panel.htm Here]<br /> <br /> ==Step 2==<br /> Peel back the plastic cover about halfway, starting at the back of the door. At this point, you can look in and see the linkages that connect to the lock and outside door handle. <br /> <br /> [[Image:step2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 3==<br /> Remove the 2 (10mm) bolts that hold the handle on,<br /> <br /> [[Image:step3a.jpg]]<br /> <br /> One inside the door<br /> <br /> [[Image:step3b.jpg]]<br /> <br /> one on the &quot;back&quot; of the door above the latch.<br /> <br /> ==Step 4==<br /> With the handle loose, it is much easier to disconnect the linkages. First, rotate the small plastic connector on the lock rod so that it unclips from the rod, and the rod slides out. Second, reach inside and undo the larger plastic clip on the door handle. It &quot;latches&quot; in the back, and by unlatching it, the rod can slip out. You need to pull the clip toward the front of the car. Unlike the other clip the rod comes out of the clip in the same direction it comes out of the hole. If you cannot get it by hand, it can help to use a small, long, flat screw driver to unlatch it, by going in through the outside screw hole left open by the bolt you removed from the handle assembly. I've attached a picture of the plastic piece open, and outside of the door which will hopefully help you understand how it comes off, this step was a major PITA the first time I tried it.<br /> [[Image:step4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 5==<br /> Once these linkages are disconnected, it just takes some twisting and finagling to get the handle assembly out. It is easiest to lower the back end of the assembly downward, and then lift the handle as if to open the door, and then swing it out. Be patient, and watch your paint. On earlier models it may be necessary to remove the phillips screw that attaches a small white plastic bracket that holds a magnetic sensor before removing the handle.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step5.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 6==<br /> The lock is held to the handle assembly with a wire spring clip, which must be pulled out of slots on opposite sides of the lock.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step6.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 7==<br /> Next, carefully pry the rotary switch off of the end of the lock drum.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step7.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 8==<br /> You will now have the lock drum in your hand, and you can bring it inside to be worked on. Now is a good time to note the orientation of the arm on the end of the tumbler. On the door locks, the hole in the drum faces downward, and the arm points towards the rear of the car. The passenger side drum is shown here:<br /> <br /> [[Image:step8.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 9==<br /> Next, remove the E-clip, the arm, and the centering spring. The arm is held on only by the E-clip; resist the temptation to ''unscrew'' the end, as the slot merely turns the rotary switch and is ''not'' a screw head!<br /> <br /> [[Image:step9.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 10==<br /> Working at the other end of the drum, you will find that the metal cap is held on by two detented points. you must pry these out straight enough that the cap slides off, I used a very small flat head screwdriver.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step10.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 11==<br /> Under the cap you will find the little &quot;trap door&quot; that covers the key hole, and the cage that holds it on. While its NOT necessary to take these off, I removed them, just to check for corrosion, and to straighten out the cage. Be careful not to lose the two springs that drive the trap door.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step11.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 12==<br /> Now comes the first step towards actually getting the locks working. If the tumbler set moves in the drum, carefully pull it out, making sure that none of the tumbler tabs or springs fall out, which I doubt they will if the lock is frozen. On my drivers side lock, it came right out, on the passenger side, I had to drive it out, by beating on it with my screwdriver and pliers, after letting it soak in penetrating oil.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step12.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 13==<br /> You will now begin removing and cleaning the tumbler tabs. This may require letting the tumbler set soak in penetrating oil a while longer. If you can move the tabs by pushing on the small end with your screwdriver, then you are ready to continue. <br /> <br /> [[Image:step13.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 14==<br /> Remove the tumbler tabs &lt;b&gt;one at a time&lt;/b&gt; by pushing on the small end with the screwdriver until enough is exposed that you can grab the big end with your pliers and pull it out without losing the spring. Once you have one of the tabs out, clean both sides and the edges with sandpaper or a razor-blade. Put each tab back before moving on!<br /> <br /> Before:<br /> <br /> [[Image:step14a.jpg]]<br /> <br /> After:<br /> <br /> [[Image:step14b.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 15==<br /> When each of the six to eight tabs is clean, oiled and placed back into the drum, put the key into the drum to see how the tabs line up. Not all of the tabs were totally flush on my set, so as a precaution, I put the tumbler set up to a bench mount 1&quot; belt sander to smooth and flush the tabs, this can be done with sand paper or even a small file.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step15.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 16==<br /> Now comes reassembly. You may find it necessary to clean out the inside of the tumbler barrel, so that the tumbler set turns freely inside it (with the key inserted of course). I coated the tumbler set in some synthetic grease before putting it back in the barrel to inhibit further corrosion. From here on out, its basically the reversal of steps 12 through 1. One thing to note however, the centering spring on my driver's side lock had worn into the tumbler set so significantly that it made it difficult to turn the key. To remedy this, i turned the spring &quot;inside out&quot; and reshaped the arms on either end of the spring so that it had a stronger, fresh purchase on the tumbler set.<br /> Lo and behold! It turns! <br /> <br /> [[Image:step16.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Credits==<br /> &lt;b&gt;Written by:&lt;/b&gt; James Fisk AKA Jimmy Nuetron (spelled incorrectly) on 3si.org!<br /> <br /> &lt;b&gt;Uploaded by:&lt;/b&gt; Christian AKA Mr Wizard<br /> ==Supporting Links==<br /> &lt;b&gt;Original Thread:&lt;/b&gt; [http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=333261&amp;page=1&amp;pp=10 3SI Thread]<br /> <br /> &lt;b&gt;Information Originally Posted at:&lt;/b&gt; [http://consolezines.com/3Spages/doorlocks.html Here]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Frozen_Door_Locks&diff=5309 2014-09-27T01:35:33Z

<p>Knockingstealth: /* Step 5 */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Door]]<br /> &lt;div style=&quot;float:right;&quot;&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> &lt;/div&gt;<br /> ==Tools==<br /> *10mm socket with long extensions and drive<br /> *Long 1/8&quot; straight screwdriver<br /> *A second very small screw driver<br /> *Needle-nose pliers<br /> *Razor-blade and/or sand paper<br /> *Penetrating oil,<br /> others: see tool list for removing door panel on linked site.<br /> <br /> I apologize for the poor quality of some of the photos, but I was using a cheap camera since I knew I was going to get it dirty!<br /> <br /> ==Step 1==<br /> Remove inner door panel, I recommend that you read the page on how to do this on Jeff Lucius' site [http://stealth316.com/2-door-panel.htm Here]<br /> <br /> ==Step 2==<br /> Peel back the plastic cover about halfway, starting at the back of the door. At this point, you can look in and see the linkages that connect to the lock and outside door handle. <br /> <br /> [[Image:step2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 3==<br /> Remove the 2 (10mm) bolts that hold the handle on,<br /> <br /> [[Image:step3a.jpg]]<br /> <br /> One inside the door<br /> <br /> [[Image:step3b.jpg]]<br /> <br /> one on the &quot;back&quot; of the door above the latch.<br /> <br /> ==Step 4==<br /> With the handle loose, it is much easier to disconnect the linkages. First, rotate the small plastic connector on the lock rod so that it unclips from the rod, and the rod slides out. Second, reach inside and undo the larger plastic clip on the door handle. It &quot;latches&quot; in the back, and by unlatching it, the rod can slip out. You need to pull the clip toward the front of the car. Unlike the other clip the rod comes out of the clip in the same direction it comes out of the hole. If you cannot get it by hand, it can help to use a small, long, flat screw driver to unlatch it, by going in through the outside screw hole left open by the bolt you removed from the handle assembly. I've attached a picture of the plastic piece open, and outside of the door which will hopefully help you understand how it comes off, this step was a major PITA the first time I tried it.<br /> [[Image:step4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 5==<br /> Once these linkages are disconnected, it just takes some twisting and finagling to get the handle assembly out. It is easiest to lower the back end of the assembly downward, and then lift the handle as if to open the door, and then swing it out. Be patient, and watch your paint. On earlier models it may be necessary to remove the phillips screw that attaches a small white plastic bracket that holds a magnetic sensor before removing the handle.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step5.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 6==<br /> The lock is held to the handle assembly with a wire spring clip, which must be pulled out of slots on opposite sides of the lock.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step6.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 7==<br /> Next, carefully pry the rotary switch off of the end of the lock drum.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step7.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 8==<br /> You will now have the lock drum in your hand, and you can bring it inside to be worked on. Now is a good time to note the orientation of the arm on the end of the tumbler. On the door locks, the hole in the drum faces downward, and the arm points towards the rear of the car. The passenger side drum is shown here:<br /> <br /> [[Image:step8.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 9==<br /> Next, remove the E-clip, the arm, and the centering spring. The arm is held on only by the E-clip; resist the temptation to ''unscrew'' the end, as the slot merely turns the rotary switch and is ''not'' a screw head!<br /> <br /> [[Image:step9.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 10==<br /> Working at the other end of the drum, you will find that the metal cap is held on by two detented points. you must pry these out straight enough that the cap slides off, I used a very small flat head screwdriver.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step10.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 11==<br /> Under the cap you will find the little &quot;trap door&quot; that covers the key hole, and the cage that holds it on. While its not necessary to take these off, I removed them, just to check for corrosion, and to straighten out the cage.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step11.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 12==<br /> Now comes the first step towards actually getting the locks working. If the tumbler set moves in the drum, carefully pull it out, making sure that none of the tumbler tabs or springs fall out, which I doubt they will if the lock is frozen. On my drivers side lock, it came right out, on the passenger side, I had to drive it out, by beating on it with my screwdriver and pliers, after letting it soak in penetrating oil.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step12.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 13==<br /> You will now begin removing and cleaning the tumbler tabs. This may require letting the tumbler set soak in penetrating oil a while longer. If you can move the tabs by pushing on the small end with your screwdriver, then you are ready to continue. <br /> <br /> [[Image:step13.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 14==<br /> Remove the tumbler tabs &lt;b&gt;one at a time&lt;/b&gt; by pushing on the small end with the screwdriver until enough is exposed that you can grab the big end with your pliers and pull it out without losing the spring. Once you have one of the tabs out, clean both sides and the edges with sandpaper or a razor-blade. Put each tab back before moving on!<br /> <br /> Before:<br /> <br /> [[Image:step14a.jpg]]<br /> <br /> After:<br /> <br /> [[Image:step14b.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 15==<br /> When each of the six to eight tabs is clean, oiled and placed back into the drum, put the key into the drum to see how the tabs line up. Not all of the tabs were totally flush on my set, so as a precaution, I put the tumbler set up to a bench mount 1&quot; belt sander to smooth and flush the tabs, this can be done with sand paper or even a small file.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step15.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 16==<br /> Now comes reassembly. You may find it necessary to clean out the inside of the tumbler barrel, so that the tumbler set turns freely inside it (with the key inserted of course). I coated the tumbler set in some synthetic grease before putting it back in the barrel to inhibit further corrosion. From here on out, its basically the reversal of steps 12 through 1. One thing to note however, the centering spring on my driver's side lock had worn into the tumbler set so significantly that it made it difficult to turn the key. To remedy this, i turned the spring &quot;inside out&quot; and reshaped the arms on either end of the spring so that it had a stronger, fresh purchase on the tumbler set.<br /> Lo and behold! It turns! <br /> <br /> [[Image:step16.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Credits==<br /> &lt;b&gt;Written by:&lt;/b&gt; James Fisk AKA Jimmy Nuetron (spelled incorrectly) on 3si.org!<br /> <br /> &lt;b&gt;Uploaded by:&lt;/b&gt; Christian AKA Mr Wizard<br /> ==Supporting Links==<br /> &lt;b&gt;Original Thread:&lt;/b&gt; [http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=333261&amp;page=1&amp;pp=10 3SI Thread]<br /> <br /> &lt;b&gt;Information Originally Posted at:&lt;/b&gt; [http://consolezines.com/3Spages/doorlocks.html Here]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Door:_Repair_Frozen_Door_Locks&diff=5308 2014-09-27T01:32:22Z

<p>Knockingstealth: /* Step 4 */ Added words to help explain removal of the larger clip.</p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Door]]<br /> &lt;div style=&quot;float:right;&quot;&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> &lt;/div&gt;<br /> ==Tools==<br /> *10mm socket with long extensions and drive<br /> *Long 1/8&quot; straight screwdriver<br /> *A second very small screw driver<br /> *Needle-nose pliers<br /> *Razor-blade and/or sand paper<br /> *Penetrating oil,<br /> others: see tool list for removing door panel on linked site.<br /> <br /> I apologize for the poor quality of some of the photos, but I was using a cheap camera since I knew I was going to get it dirty!<br /> <br /> ==Step 1==<br /> Remove inner door panel, I recommend that you read the page on how to do this on Jeff Lucius' site [http://stealth316.com/2-door-panel.htm Here]<br /> <br /> ==Step 2==<br /> Peel back the plastic cover about halfway, starting at the back of the door. At this point, you can look in and see the linkages that connect to the lock and outside door handle. <br /> <br /> [[Image:step2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 3==<br /> Remove the 2 (10mm) bolts that hold the handle on,<br /> <br /> [[Image:step3a.jpg]]<br /> <br /> One inside the door<br /> <br /> [[Image:step3b.jpg]]<br /> <br /> one on the &quot;back&quot; of the door above the latch.<br /> <br /> ==Step 4==<br /> With the handle loose, it is much easier to disconnect the linkages. First, rotate the small plastic connector on the lock rod so that it unclips from the rod, and the rod slides out. Second, reach inside and undo the larger plastic clip on the door handle. It &quot;latches&quot; in the back, and by unlatching it, the rod can slip out. You need to pull the clip toward the front of the car. Unlike the other clip the rod comes out of the clip in the same direction it comes out of the hole. If you cannot get it by hand, it can help to use a small, long, flat screw driver to unlatch it, by going in through the outside screw hole left open by the bolt you removed from the handle assembly. I've attached a picture of the plastic piece open, and outside of the door which will hopefully help you understand how it comes off, this step was a major PITA the first time I tried it.<br /> [[Image:step4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 5==<br /> Once these linkages are disconnected, it just takes some twisting and finagling to get the handle assembly out. It is easiest to lower the back end of the assembly downward, and then lift the handle as if to open the door, and then swing it out. Be patient, and watch your paint.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step5.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 6==<br /> The lock is held to the handle assembly with a wire spring clip, which must be pulled out of slots on opposite sides of the lock.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step6.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 7==<br /> Next, carefully pry the rotary switch off of the end of the lock drum.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step7.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 8==<br /> You will now have the lock drum in your hand, and you can bring it inside to be worked on. Now is a good time to note the orientation of the arm on the end of the tumbler. On the door locks, the hole in the drum faces downward, and the arm points towards the rear of the car. The passenger side drum is shown here:<br /> <br /> [[Image:step8.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 9==<br /> Next, remove the E-clip, the arm, and the centering spring. The arm is held on only by the E-clip; resist the temptation to ''unscrew'' the end, as the slot merely turns the rotary switch and is ''not'' a screw head!<br /> <br /> [[Image:step9.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 10==<br /> Working at the other end of the drum, you will find that the metal cap is held on by two detented points. you must pry these out straight enough that the cap slides off, I used a very small flat head screwdriver.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step10.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 11==<br /> Under the cap you will find the little &quot;trap door&quot; that covers the key hole, and the cage that holds it on. While its not necessary to take these off, I removed them, just to check for corrosion, and to straighten out the cage.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step11.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 12==<br /> Now comes the first step towards actually getting the locks working. If the tumbler set moves in the drum, carefully pull it out, making sure that none of the tumbler tabs or springs fall out, which I doubt they will if the lock is frozen. On my drivers side lock, it came right out, on the passenger side, I had to drive it out, by beating on it with my screwdriver and pliers, after letting it soak in penetrating oil.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step12.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 13==<br /> You will now begin removing and cleaning the tumbler tabs. This may require letting the tumbler set soak in penetrating oil a while longer. If you can move the tabs by pushing on the small end with your screwdriver, then you are ready to continue. <br /> <br /> [[Image:step13.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 14==<br /> Remove the tumbler tabs &lt;b&gt;one at a time&lt;/b&gt; by pushing on the small end with the screwdriver until enough is exposed that you can grab the big end with your pliers and pull it out without losing the spring. Once you have one of the tabs out, clean both sides and the edges with sandpaper or a razor-blade. Put each tab back before moving on!<br /> <br /> Before:<br /> <br /> [[Image:step14a.jpg]]<br /> <br /> After:<br /> <br /> [[Image:step14b.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 15==<br /> When each of the six to eight tabs is clean, oiled and placed back into the drum, put the key into the drum to see how the tabs line up. Not all of the tabs were totally flush on my set, so as a precaution, I put the tumbler set up to a bench mount 1&quot; belt sander to smooth and flush the tabs, this can be done with sand paper or even a small file.<br /> <br /> [[Image:step15.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Step 16==<br /> Now comes reassembly. You may find it necessary to clean out the inside of the tumbler barrel, so that the tumbler set turns freely inside it (with the key inserted of course). I coated the tumbler set in some synthetic grease before putting it back in the barrel to inhibit further corrosion. From here on out, its basically the reversal of steps 12 through 1. One thing to note however, the centering spring on my driver's side lock had worn into the tumbler set so significantly that it made it difficult to turn the key. To remedy this, i turned the spring &quot;inside out&quot; and reshaped the arms on either end of the spring so that it had a stronger, fresh purchase on the tumbler set.<br /> Lo and behold! It turns! <br /> <br /> [[Image:step16.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==Credits==<br /> &lt;b&gt;Written by:&lt;/b&gt; James Fisk AKA Jimmy Nuetron (spelled incorrectly) on 3si.org!<br /> <br /> &lt;b&gt;Uploaded by:&lt;/b&gt; Christian AKA Mr Wizard<br /> ==Supporting Links==<br /> &lt;b&gt;Original Thread:&lt;/b&gt; [http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=333261&amp;page=1&amp;pp=10 3SI Thread]<br /> <br /> &lt;b&gt;Information Originally Posted at:&lt;/b&gt; [http://consolezines.com/3Spages/doorlocks.html Here]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5233 2014-02-24T11:42:12Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Rear Strut Eye Bushing]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> ==Tools Needed==<br /> *Large Clamp<br /> *Bench top Grinder<br /> *Large Socket approx. 32mm<br /> *Hole Saw<br /> <br /> ==Parts Needed==<br /> *Old Sleeve<br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> *Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> *Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> *Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> *Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> *Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> *Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> *Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> *Bushing Color:Black<br /> *Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> *Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> *Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> =Replacing Lower Strut Eye Bushing in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth 1st Gen VR4/TT with ECS .. possibly others=<br /> #'''Reduce the outer diameter'''. I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old brake pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a brake caliper cylinder.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have inserted an old rubber hose or something to the center the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.*:[[File:Holesaw.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press in the steel sleeve'''. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed the rest of the way. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5232 2014-02-24T11:40:15Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Rear Strut Eye Bushing]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> ==Tools Needed==<br /> *Large Clamp<br /> *Bench top Grinder<br /> *Large Socket approx. 32mm<br /> *Hole Saw<br /> <br /> ==Parts Needed==<br /> *Old Sleeve<br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> *Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> *Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> *Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> *Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> *Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> *Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> *Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> *Bushing Color:Black<br /> *Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> *Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> *Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> =Replacing Lower Strut Eye Bushing in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth 1st Gen VR4/TT with ECS .. possibly others=<br /> #'''Reduce the outer diameter'''. I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old brake pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a brake caliper cylinder.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have inserted an old rubber hose or something to the center the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.#*:[[File:Holesaw.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press in the steel sleeve'''. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5231 2014-02-24T11:39:25Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Rear Strut Eye Bushing]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> ==Tools Needed==<br /> *Large Clamp<br /> *Bench top Grinder<br /> *Large Socket approx. 32mm<br /> *Hole Saw<br /> <br /> ==Parts Needed==<br /> *Old Sleeve<br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> *Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> *Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> *Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> *Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> *Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> *Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> *Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> *Bushing Color:Black<br /> *Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> *Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> *Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> =Replacing Lower Strut Eye Bushing in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth 1st Gen VR4/TT with ECS .. possibly others=<br /> #'''Reduce the outer diameter'''. I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have inserted an old rubber hose or something to the center the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.#*:[[File:Holesaw.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press in the steel sleeve'''. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5230 2014-02-24T03:40:36Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Rear Strut Eye Bushing]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> ==Tools Needed==<br /> *Large Clamp<br /> *Bench top Grinder<br /> *Large Socket approx. 32mm<br /> *Hole Saw<br /> <br /> ==Parts Needed==<br /> *Old Sleeve<br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> *Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> *Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> *Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> *Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> *Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> *Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> *Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> *Bushing Color:Black<br /> *Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> *Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> *Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> =Replacing Lower Strut Eye Bushing in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth 1st Gen VR4/TT with ECS .. possibly others=<br /> #'''Reduce the outer diameter'''. I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.#*:[[File:Holesaw.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press in the steel sleeve'''. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5229 2014-02-24T03:39:06Z

<p>Knockingstealth: /* Replacing Bushing in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth 1st Gen VR4/TT with ECS .. possibly others */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Strut]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> ==Tools Needed==<br /> *Large Clamp<br /> *Bench top Grinder<br /> *Large Socket approx. 32mm<br /> *Hole Saw<br /> <br /> ==Parts Needed==<br /> *Old Sleeve<br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> *Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> *Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> *Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> *Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> *Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> *Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> *Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> *Bushing Color:Black<br /> *Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> *Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> *Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> =Replacing Lower Strut Eye Bushing in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth 1st Gen VR4/TT with ECS .. possibly others=<br /> #'''Reduce the outer diameter'''. I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.#*:[[File:Holesaw.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press in the steel sleeve'''. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5228 2014-02-24T03:38:26Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Strut]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> ==Tools Needed==<br /> *Large Clamp<br /> *Bench top Grinder<br /> *Large Socket approx. 32mm<br /> *Hole Saw<br /> <br /> ==Parts Needed==<br /> *Old Sleeve<br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> *Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> *Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> *Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> *Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> *Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> *Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> *Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> *Bushing Color:Black<br /> *Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> *Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> *Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> =Replacing Bushing in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth 1st Gen VR4/TT with ECS .. possibly others=<br /> #'''Reduce the outer diameter'''. I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.#*:[[File:Holesaw.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press in the steel sleeve'''. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5227 2014-02-24T03:37:51Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Strut]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> ==Tools Needed==<br /> *Large Clamp<br /> *Bench top Grinder<br /> *Large Socket approx. 32mm<br /> *Hole Saw<br /> <br /> ==Parts Needed==<br /> *Old Sleeve<br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> *Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> *Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> *Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> *Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> *Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> *Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> *Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> *Bushing Color:Black<br /> *Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> *Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> *Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> =Replacing Bushing in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO or Dodge Stealth 1st Gen VR4/TT with ECS .. possibly others=<br /> #'''Reduce the outer diameter'''. I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.#*:[[File:Holesaw.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press in the steel sleeve'''. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5226 2014-02-24T03:35:51Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Strut]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> ==Tools Needed==<br /> *Large Clamp<br /> *Bench top Grinder<br /> *Large Socket approx. 32mm<br /> *Hole Saw<br /> <br /> ==Parts Needed==<br /> *Old Sleeve<br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> *Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> *Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> *Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> *Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> *Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> *Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> *Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> *Bushing Color:Black<br /> *Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> *Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> *Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> #'''Reduce the outer diameter'''. I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.#*:[[File:Holesaw.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press in the steel sleeve'''. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=File:Holesaw.jpg&diff=5225 2014-02-24T03:34:00Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5224 2014-02-24T03:29:02Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Strut]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> ==Tools Needed==<br /> *Large Clamp<br /> *Bench top Grinder<br /> *Large Socket approx. 32mm<br /> *Hole Saw<br /> <br /> ==Parts Needed==<br /> *Old Sleeve<br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> <br /> UPC:703639416135<br /> Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> Bushing Color:Black<br /> Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> #'''Reduce the outer diameter'''. I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot;/&gt;<br /> #'''Press in the steel sleeve'''. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5223 2014-02-24T03:25:18Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Strut]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> <br /> UPC:703639416135<br /> Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> Bushing Color:Black<br /> Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> #'''Reduce the outer diameter'''. I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot;/&gt;<br /> #'''Press in the steel sleeve'''. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5222 2014-02-24T03:24:07Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Strut]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> <br /> UPC:703639416135<br /> Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> Bushing Color:Black<br /> Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> #'''Remove the side console carpet'''. There will be a screw on the side, a plastic pop tap by the gas pedal, and some blind plastic tabs on the side of the console.<br /> #:[[File:center_console-side_carpet_before.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Center console side panel]][[File:center_console-underside_carpet.jpg|thumb|none|250px|Exposed center console]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Remove the panel that goes around the steering column'''. There will be some screws that screw the bottom into the top. Remove them and then gently pry the two halfs apart and remove them. You may need to adjust the column up and down in order to get these pieces out.<br /> <br /> <br /> #'''Reduce the outer diameter'''. I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing'''.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> <br /> #'''Press in the steel sleeve'''. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|400px]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|400px]]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5221 2014-02-24T03:21:15Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Strut]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> <br /> UPC:703639416135<br /> Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> Bushing Color:Black<br /> Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> #'''Remove the side console carpet'''. There will be a screw on the side, a plastic pop tap by the gas pedal, and some blind plastic tabs on the side of the console.<br /> #:[[File:center_console-side_carpet_before.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Center console side panel]][[File:center_console-underside_carpet.jpg|thumb|none|250px|Exposed center console]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Remove the panel that goes around the steering column'''. There will be some screws that screw the bottom into the top. Remove them and then gently pry the two halfs apart and remove them. You may need to adjust the column up and down in order to get these pieces out.<br /> <br /> <br /> #'''Reduce the outer diameter'''. I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye'''. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]&lt;br style=&quot;clear:both&quot; /&gt;<br /> <br /> I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.<br /> <br /> The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|400px]]<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|400px]]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5220 2014-02-24T03:18:01Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Strut]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> <br /> UPC:703639416135<br /> Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> Bushing Color:Black<br /> Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> <br /> #'''Remove the kick panel/knee protector dash panel'''. Pop out the rheostat garnish, the switch garnish and disconnect the connections. This will expose a 10mm bolt in each hole. There are two more in the lower left and lower right of the protecter. I found that you do not need to remove the hood release, simply rest the knee protector on the floor.<br /> #:[[File:kick_panel_off.jpg|thumb|none|250px|Center Console and kick panels removed]]<br /> <br /> <br /> #'''Reduce the outerdiameter''' I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference]]<br /> <br /> #'''Press the busing in the Strut eye''' I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|250px]]]<br /> <br /> I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.<br /> <br /> The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|400px]]<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|400px]]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5219 2014-02-24T03:12:48Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Strut]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> <br /> UPC:703639416135<br /> Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> Bushing Color:Black<br /> Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|250px]]<br /> <br /> I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|400px]]<br /> <br /> I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.<br /> <br /> The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|400px]]<br /> <br /> #*:[[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|400px]]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5218 2014-02-24T03:12:01Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Strut]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> <br /> UPC:703639416135<br /> Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> Bushing Color:Black<br /> Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> <br /> [[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|250px]]<br /> <br /> I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> <br /> [[File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|400px]]<br /> <br /> I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.<br /> <br /> The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> <br /> [[File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|400px]]<br /> <br /> [[File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|400px]]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5217 2014-02-24T03:10:36Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Strut]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> <br /> UPC:703639416135<br /> Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> Bushing Color:Black<br /> Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> <br /> [[File:clock_spring-to_neutral.jpg|thumb|none|250px|The clockspring on neutral]]<br /> [[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|400px]]<br /> <br /> I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> <br /> [[Image:http://www.3swiki.org/File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|400px]]<br /> <br /> I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.<br /> <br /> The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> <br /> [[Image:http://www.3swiki.org/File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|400px]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:http://www.3swiki.org/File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|400px]]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5216 2014-02-24T03:09:19Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Strut]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> <br /> UPC:703639416135<br /> Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> Bushing Color:Black<br /> Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> [[Image:http://www.3swiki.org/File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|400px]]<br /> <br /> I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> <br /> [[Image:http://www.3swiki.org/File:Press_bushing.jpg|thumb|400px]]<br /> <br /> I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.<br /> <br /> The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> <br /> [[Image:http://www.3swiki.org/File:Press_sleeve.jpg|thumb|400px]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:http://www.3swiki.org/File:DSCN0402.jpg|thumb|400px]]</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5215 2014-02-24T03:06:30Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Strut]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> <br /> UPC:703639416135<br /> Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> Bushing Color:Black<br /> Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> [[Image:http://www.3swiki.org/File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|400px]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg|thumb|none|250px|The clockspring on neutral]]<br /> &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.3swiki.org/File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bushing in Grinder&quot;&gt;<br /> <br /> I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> <br /> http://www.3swiki.org/File:Press_bushing.jpg<br /> <br /> I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.<br /> <br /> The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> <br /> http://www.3swiki.org/File:Press_sleeve.jpg<br /> <br /> http://www.3swiki.org/File:DSCN0402.jpg</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5214 2014-02-24T03:02:15Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:How To]]<br /> [[Category:Suspension]]<br /> [[Category:Strut]]<br /> <br /> A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> <br /> UPC:703639416135<br /> Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> Bushing Color:Black<br /> Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> [[Image:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg.jpg|thumb|400px]]<br /> &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.3swiki.org/File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bushing in Grinder&quot;&gt;<br /> <br /> I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> <br /> http://www.3swiki.org/File:Press_bushing.jpg<br /> <br /> I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.<br /> <br /> The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> <br /> http://www.3swiki.org/File:Press_sleeve.jpg<br /> <br /> http://www.3swiki.org/File:DSCN0402.jpg</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5213 2014-02-24T02:58:21Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> <br /> UPC:703639416135<br /> Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> Bushing Color:Black<br /> Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> <br /> &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.3swiki.org/File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bushing in Grinder&quot;&gt;<br /> <br /> I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> <br /> http://www.3swiki.org/File:Press_bushing.jpg<br /> <br /> I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.<br /> <br /> The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.<br /> <br /> http://www.3swiki.org/File:Press_sleeve.jpg<br /> <br /> http://www.3swiki.org/File:DSCN0402.jpg</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=File:DSCN0402.jpg&diff=5212 2014-02-24T02:57:39Z

<p>Knockingstealth: Finished bushing</p> <hr /> <div>Finished bushing</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=File:Press_sleeve.jpg&diff=5211 2014-02-24T02:56:02Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=File:Press_bushing.jpg&diff=5210 2014-02-24T02:54:49Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=Suspension:_Repair_Lower_Strut_Bushing&diff=5209 2014-02-24T02:53:44Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div>A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts. <br /> <br /> I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.<br /> <br /> Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.<br /> <br /> These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.<br /> <br /> Brand:Energy Suspension<br /> Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G<br /> Part Type:Shock Bushings<br /> Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings<br /> Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G<br /> <br /> UPC:703639416135<br /> Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end<br /> Bushing Material:Polyurethane<br /> Bushing Color:Black<br /> Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.<br /> Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.<br /> Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.<br /> <br /> Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.<br /> <br /> I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.<br /> <br /> &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.3swiki.org/File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bushing in Grinder&quot;&gt;<br /> <br /> I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old break pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a break caliper cylinder.<br /> <br /> I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have wrapped some tape or something around the center drill of the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.<br /> <br /> The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed in again. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.</div>

Knockingstealth https://www.3swiki.org/index.php?title=File:Bushing_in_grinder.jpg&diff=5208 2014-02-24T02:52:26Z

<p>Knockingstealth: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Knockingstealth